UKC

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Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.

Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for King of Kings but head right up the undercut flake by a tough move. The sustained flake/crack above this leads to a small ledge. Finish up the tricky wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Bernie Bradbury 1982.

Ticklists

Very good routes in the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
hamer89 12 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Watch the very top as the top ledges are probably covered in dirt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch the very top as the top ledges are probably covered in dirt.
Andy Farnell 2 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The undercut flake is hardly 'arduous', more like one tough move to easy ground. The top crack is sustained.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The undercut flake is hardly 'arduous', more like one tough move to easy ground. The top crack is sustained.

Logged Ascents

51 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gates of Perception

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Anglezarke Quarry)

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