Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
Start as for King of Kings but head right up the undercut flake by a tough move. The sustained flake/crack above this leads to a small ledge. Finish up the tricky wall above. © Rockfax
FA. Bernie Bradbury 1982.
Very good routes in the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Definitive *** Lancs Grit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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hamer89 | 12 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Watch the very top as the top ledges are probably covered in dirt. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Watch the very top as the top ledges are probably covered in dirt. |
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Andy Farnell | 2 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The undercut flake is hardly 'arduous', more like one tough move to easy ground. The top crack is sustained. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The undercut flake is hardly 'arduous', more like one tough move to easy ground. The top crack is sustained. |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Anglezarke Quarry)