Restricted Access
Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
The classic of the wall, imposing but not too hard! Climb the yellowish groove to a ledge, step out left and climb the wall to the overhangs. Move right through the stacked notches to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Hollows 1971. FA. (Terrorific) Andrew Gridley 1986.
Ticklists
Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Definitive *** Lancs Grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 26 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: E1 5b, especially if you go direct up bottom corner, which is definitely easier for the lanky. Pegs are quite crucial but a bit suspect. As hard as First Finale... with worse pro? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: E1 5b, especially if you go direct up bottom corner, which is definitely easier for the lanky. Pegs are quite crucial but a bit suspect. As hard as First Finale... with worse pro? |
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| donkarlo | 3 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I got really good gear by stepping onto the face and dropping down a little to sling the big flake and there is great friend placement behind it too. Makes the moves to the peg a bit less daunting, Sinker nuts under the roof and thouroughly enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I got really good gear by stepping onto the face and dropping down a little to sling the big flake and there is great friend placement behind it too. Makes the moves to the peg a bit less daunting, Sinker nuts under the roof and thouroughly enjoyable. |
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| Dan-gerMouse | 21 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: umm side runners will protect (but maybe lower tehgrade)Is certainly challenging for the grade (compared to first fanal and many happy returns its neighbours) Its true leaving that ledge to come around the front face takes some guts, a thoroughly enjoyable route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: umm side runners will protect (but maybe lower tehgrade)Is certainly challenging for the grade (compared to first fanal and many happy returns its neighbours) Its true leaving that ledge to come around the front face takes some guts, a thoroughly enjoyable route. |
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| r0b | 26 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can't agree with Fiend. Start of Terra Cotta is 5a at most, and although there is no gear until you're on the first ledge it's not that high up is it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can't agree with Fiend. Start of Terra Cotta is 5a at most, and although there is no gear until you're on the first ledge it's not that high up is it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry
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Metamorphosis
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Anglezarke Quarry)