Restricted Access
Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
Technically a touch easier than Golden Tower. Climb the slightly-disposable wall (pegs) heading for a rest just left of the notch in the final roof. Finish over this with a flourish. The Original Finish out right via the notch is E3. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Cheverst 1971. FFA. Dave Knighton 1977.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark A Humphries | 16 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Glad to read your comments Goi about the right hand variation which is supposedly e2 5c. The moves going through the notch are never 5c in a month of Sundays imho! Ive tried this route twice now and have failed on both occassions. There is a decent crimp above the twin pegs and then a shit one above that but what your supposed to do from there is beyond me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as im getting pissed off now! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Glad to read your comments Goi about the right hand variation which is supposedly e2 5c. The moves going through the notch are never 5c in a month of Sundays imho! Ive tried this route twice now and have failed on both occassions. There is a decent crimp above the twin pegs and then a shit one above that but what your supposed to do from there is beyond me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as im getting pissed off now! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry
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Fingertip Control
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Anglezarke Quarry)