Rockfax Description
Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top. © Rockfax
C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957.
Hard Rock , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The Main Wall Mal Challenge , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Bogies Challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Hard Rock 2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Hard Rock 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , The post lockdown local list , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber? , 32 By 32 , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , 23 HVS routes for 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Cyrees | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Broken hold above the overlap on P2. Take care and back up your gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Broken hold above the overlap on P2. Take care and back up your gear. |
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antoneh | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Pulled a big block off at the traverse left..looked solid, but what do I know. | ||
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βeta: Pulled a big block off at the traverse left..looked solid, but what do I know. |
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Tall Oak | 17 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Loathed this the first time I went up and subsequently stayed clear from the gorge as thought it was all polished. Today however I loved everything about it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loathed this the first time I went up and subsequently stayed clear from the gorge as thought it was all polished. Today however I loved everything about it. |
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Steve Bartle | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Immediately above the 2nd belay is a sapling and at the base of it is a large juggy flake. Despite it being the obvious hold I would really avoid hauling on it or placing too much weight on it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Immediately above the 2nd belay is a sapling and at the base of it is a large juggy flake. Despite it being the obvious hold I would really avoid hauling on it or placing too much weight on it! |
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val.ismaili | 20 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Black tricam in the left pocket is better than the red tricam in the right pocket. | ||
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βeta: Black tricam in the left pocket is better than the red tricam in the right pocket. |
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hpm2105 | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Fantastic climb. P1: Start is a bit confusing and bold (I think I did a hybrid of the two options) but it gets progressively easier after that. P2: quite straightforward with good protection throughout. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic climb. P1: Start is a bit confusing and bold (I think I did a hybrid of the two options) but it gets progressively easier after that. P2: quite straightforward with good protection throughout. |
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Colin Knowles | 29 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: The two ash belay trees at the base are suffering from ash dieback, as is the ash tree below the belay on pitch 1. | ||
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βeta: The two ash belay trees at the base are suffering from ash dieback, as is the ash tree below the belay on pitch 1. |
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Katsmiff | 6 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay. |
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Euan Todd | 1 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected. | ||
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βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))