Rockfax Description
An engrossing and adventurous tour of the wall. The second pitch is no place for a timid second. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5b, 20m. From the right side of the ledge above the tree, pull over an overhang and head up and slightly right to a slim corner. Follow this to an overhang and move over it rightwards to a hanging stance on pegs and an old bolt plus nuts.
2) 5c, 26m. Traverse left beneath the overhang to pegs and gear where it fades. Move up and left to a pocket, peg, and then left again to the base of corner groove, peg. Climb the groove and then romp up the three iron spikes on the left wall to a fine stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © Rockfax
B Annette, C Jones (4 pts aid) (E3 5c direct finish C King Aug/1979) Feb/1964.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous , Routes for MCI , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5
User | Date | Notes | ||
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LKesner | 7 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: There are some chossy/loose rocks posing a risk when on Breakfast ledge - just below the far left of the traverse on P2 of Pink Wall direct. I took a swing on second so saw the rock quality below this section (the rock is overhanging below the traverse). These loose rocks don’t pose an issue when on the climb itself but are something to be aware of when around/ on Breakfast Ledge. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are some chossy/loose rocks posing a risk when on Breakfast ledge - just below the far left of the traverse on P2 of Pink Wall direct. I took a swing on second so saw the rock quality below this section (the rock is overhanging below the traverse). These loose rocks don’t pose an issue when on the climb itself but are something to be aware of when around/ on Breakfast Ledge. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))