Hidden 14/Jun TR rpt
Euan Todd 13/May Lead O/S

Quality route, gear a little fiddly at the bottom, but the peg is bomber. Committing wee sequence through the crux, but over quickly.

with c357
c357 13/May 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr -
jake lee 05/Dec/17 2nd
with Paz
Paz 05/Dec/17 Lead rpt
RagingPuffin 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Emma D
erkdaly12 16/Sep/17 2nd
hankyc 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Quarryboy 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Finally got around to leading this after all these years! For some reason was bigging this one up a lot in my head as being really hard at E1 for a long time so was always a bit put off by it although definitely within my technical ability nowadays.

with Jeff Jackson, Stanners
aptius 06/Aug/17 TR dog
Stanners 06/Aug/17 2nd rpt

Good lead from Jack after a while away from trad.

with Jeff Jackson, Quarryboy
bonoid 09/Jul/17 TR
with Petzl
Adam Bosworth ?/Jun/17 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
brian watson 08/Apr/17 2nd β

Very cruxy!

with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 03/Dec/16 Lead RP
steve_gibbs 03/Dec/16 2nd rpt
ali.scott 16/Oct/16 Lead RP

Hard to read crux! With the peg, top-end E1 seems fair?

67hours 15/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Steve "d00D" Gibbs
steve_gibbs 15/Oct/16 Lead dog
with ali.scott, George Cave
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd
philhilo 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Puzzled and pumped until I figured it, then straight forward.

with mark hodson
TomJ 06/Aug/16 2nd
with derico
derico 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Jordan
julesmckim 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Bulge easier than it looks - good holds all the way

with GeoMike
steve-grigg 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd β
mikedevcole 23/Apr/16 Lead dog

Faffed around on moves going past the peg and ended up resting on the rope. Dissapointed. Once I'd done the crux went ok to the top.

Stuart William 23/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/16 Lead dog
Hugobristol 12/Apr/16 2nd β
Hidden 16/Mar/16 Lead O/S
dmacmorris 16/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Looks very hard for the ground but defiantly work a lead.

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
RichyBOYY 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S

thought the crux through the peg was a pretty intense but short lived - sweet route, not to be sniffed at for sure

AshBarnes 31/Oct/15 2nd O/S
emdawes 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Ollie B 03/Oct/15 Lead β

Bob led, pulled ropes and led on his gear.

with B.Gregory, B.Brewer
Gabe Oliver 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Much better than Gollum and not much harder. Really good climbing

Dexter JW 19/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Both tried, both failed. I can vouch for the peg, it held 85kg of 'not good enough' from decking out. Hard! made it about 2 metres above the peg

with M1V0
ian d f 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
M1V0 19/Sep/15 Lead dnf

With clipped peg after Dex tried it repeatedly. Didn't make it much further up.

onlyfoddington 19/Sep/15 2nd dog

Took three attempts to get through the crux.

with ian d f
afrosam 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with DaveX
DaveX 06/Sep/15 2nd β
with afrosam
steve_gibbs 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Pauline Picchio
steve_gibbs 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
Sophie Nunn 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

Should have remembered what the guidebook said!

with MartyJ
felixizzy 30/May/15 Lead rpt
clipskipper 30/May/15 2nd dog

Hard E1, 5c. Polished at the bottom

James Marshall 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with sash
David Clover ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Luxulyan 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Abi
smartydh9 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Tim_C7 ?/Apr/15 Lead
pheotleyr 25/Mar/15 2nd β

Good one move wonder crux. Good, but more like 1 star I'd say.

felixizzy 25/Mar/15 Lead dog

Followed some chalked holds right of the peg 3 times which resulted in 3 falls on to the peg. Got the move fairly easily when I realised which way I was actually meant to go.

London Luke 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Tim_C7
kierankeavy 15/Mar/15 2nd dog
steve-grigg 15/Mar/15 Lead dog
David Maddison 15/Mar/15 Lead dog
petellis 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with The short fuse
Matt Amos 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with zcsharp
zcsharp 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Wasn't as bad as i was expecting, tons of gear at the crux but the brand new peg was fine by itself.

shoulders 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with pete lewis
tobydunford 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
BicycleBradley 25/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dave Thompson 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Kyle87 09/Jun/14 Lead RP
Stanners 09/Jun/14 2nd rpt

strong lead from Kyle

with Kyle87
sarahrowlands 27/May/14 TR
with Kyle Williamson
jon_ridley 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd dnf
danmullett 05/May/14 2nd
Cheese Monkey 24/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Alex Winter 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great route, with one little pokey section past the peg. Bit damp at the top.

with Ben Darby
Hidden 16/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
evhall 05/Apr/14 Lead β


mallardhealhook 05/Apr/14 2nd
with evhall
Mark Davies PK 04/Apr/14 TR dog

Failed on this about 10 years ago just above the peg so thought i would check out the moves again and check the condition of the peg as well as a direct finish. Peg looks ok but i may renew it. I think this route is E2. Direct finish possible at 5c/6a.

EmilyElouise 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Stuart William 20/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Well... technically not onsight since I had already climbed the top roof of Gollum. Set off just as the rain started although only the top felt properly wet. Would be interesting to watch someone else do it to see if there is a more static way through the crux, went for a fairly wild but effective option. Felt a bit easier than expected but fantastic climbing. Start felt bold

with Pleb
Cheese Monkey 19/Mar/14 Lead β

Rich couldn't manage the moves past the peg so pulled ropes and I went up. Found the move after the peg tricky what with all the pump! Very nice route

with Rich R
Chris Sieradzki 09/Mar/14 Lead dog

Got to undercut and than I was completely stumped because I have had no clue how to get it through. Moved into pocket and still couldn't see any other holds apart from other tiny pocket. Climbed down desperately looking for other solution and after couple of minutes holding I decided to have a rest on the peg. After I have been given tip from other climber I got through the crux quite easily - very committing moves but beautifully technical

with Hooo
Hooo 09/Mar/14 2nd

Chris had to rest a couple of times. Armed with the beta I cruised it clean, but I can see why an onsight would be a lot harder.

Dan0Me 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Tom P
Hidden 07/Mar/14 2nd rpt
AndyF 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S

A few tricky moves but generally pretty good climb

with Mike
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd dog
Shone 11/Jul/13 2nd

Fierce pocket for left hand!

with Ian Butterworth
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gibbo 05/Jun/13 2nd
with Sash Coombes
Dean Russell 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gibbo 03/May/13 Lead dnf
with Ollie Keynes
Nick Russell 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Excellent sequence through the crux! Without that peg it would be E2 for sure, and I'm not sure about the state of it at the moment...

James Smith 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

awesome crux sequence passing the bulge! happy to feel so comfortable on this.

with ben
jon_ridley 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Ollie, grp
Tomar 02/Dec/12 Lead β

Have 2nd the route two years ago. Tasty pockets

with brices
brices 02/Dec/12 Lead β

on tomars gear

with Tomar
KitRabbette 30/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd
AlexRenshaw 29/Sep/12 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
grp 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Griff1990 29/Sep/12 2nd dog
with grp
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
ladymuck 07/Sep/12 TR dnf
with Alastair Heggie
Pete Rigby 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead β
arandall 30/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with remus
1202alarm 11/Aug/12 Lead

I did get a good bit of beta on this after climbing up to the undercut and back down a few times. Once I found the crucial holds and committed to going for it a great and powerful sequence! Obviously all that bouldering has paid off...

with Jamie Evans
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Stanners 19/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Flowed through the crux this time rather than begging for rescue. What was I worried about, great route! I am finally at peace with Smaug.

with Martin Stanfield
Stanley 19/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Very nice route, a scary one to try to onsight on lead though.

Didymus 24/May/12 Lead rpt


Steve Hillier 22/May/12 TR RP
with ben greatorex
Hidden 20/Mar/12 Lead β
bpmclimb 20/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with hms
Ali D 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with HarryB
HarryB 14/Mar/12 2nd
with Al
matt_read 16/Jan/12 2nd dog

Nice route once I got the crux to go!

paultaylor 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead
mattshort 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Alan100
cbeard 15/Oct/11 TR rpt

Failed to finish on lead, then saw LH pocket on the first overhang and climbed clean

Howard Lawledge ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Maddy
Stanners 24/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Started out with hope but not expectation. Probably 5b getting to the jug below the undercut. After a while, managed to established ok gear below the peg. Game on...I moved to undercut and clipped peg after faffing around adjusting position of the quick draw. Got the undercut when jack appeared abseiling a few meters to my left. Deciding he would "spectate" he pointed out a good hold slightly higher up. I got this but felt pumped from clinging to the undercut for a while. With poor footholds, I attempted to make a very reachy/risky move to what looked like a good hold up right. Too far though and dropped back down heavily onto the hold below. Panicking and pumped and with someone saying "I think the peg has mould on it" I begged for saviour from Jack on the abseil. Heroically he began to tie a figure of eight on the bite. My hand slipping and opening more and more. Milliseconds from my date with gravity I flopped onto jacks ab rope with relief. "****ing hell" and I lowered to the ground. (sorry for clogging up notes for this climb lads)...will get it next time for sure ...(seconding)

with Martin Stanfield
BeccaSnowden 22/Aug/11 Lead dog

Wasn't sure I could still do 5c moves so rested first - did them easily anyway.

thomasadixon 22/Aug/11 2nd rpt
stvredmond 02/Aug/11 Lead

hard sustained sequence. not what id epect an E1 5c to be like. really good route and fully recomend it to anyone who wants a challenge

Helnorris 02/Aug/11 2nd

Very sustained climbing and very pumpy, doesn't let up much throughout the whole of the climb. Awesome though.

luke13 ?/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with oli
Hidden 28/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 22/May/11 TR
Chris Ebbutt 22/May/11 TR
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 20/May/11 2nd dog
andy dunn 13/May/11 2nd
with J
andy dunn 06/May/11 2nd
with J
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead β
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ross Davidson 24/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
LisaA 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with bigdrew
bigdrew 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with LisaA
Jack_F 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route an excellent moves through the crux nice sharp pocket!!

adam cooper*super* 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

best E2 i have done! well from the guide it says E2.

with Jack_F
andy dunn 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice moves over the bulge to begin, peg looked fairly solid... Eases up for a bit then kinda catches you by surprise for the traverse leftwards under the roof.

with Darren
Pete Polish 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Marcin
bpmclimb 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
ecowaller 24/Apr/10 Lead

Nice little climb

with Paula
tommytuffa 06/Apr/10 Lead dog

rested on peg, stiff move

with Tomar
Tomar 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt

Didn't find it hard this time - the jugs came to hand sooner than I remembered. Completely reliant on the peg, though.

Huntlyfiddler 21/Mar/10 2nd
gnc760 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Rose Williams
T ny ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
jlgoddard 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
JPGR ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Ahern
gdb4060 30/Jun/09 2nd
with Will
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd dog
riddle 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with miku979
deklan 14/Jun/09 Lead
with jamie
Dr Caterpillar 24/May/09 Lead dog

went off route right of the peg, hard

JimR 02/May/09 -
BeccaSnowden 14/Apr/09 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
richgac 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Lev 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 11/Oct/08 2nd dog
CarolineH 27/Sep/08 2nd dog
Bristoldave 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
cem 26/Apr/08 Lead dog

1 rest

with Dan from Stroud
Circus 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
ASchwirtz 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
piersg ?/Jul/07 TR
Huntlyfiddler 08/Jun/07 2nd
bpmclimb 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Hard to see where the best holds are from under the bulge. It all went smoothly once I committed to climb up past the peg.

Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 22/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
phsharpy 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Freidland
craig h 05/Jun/06 TR O/S
with Shunted
Hidden 23/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/06 2nd
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Fat Tim 11/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with PJ
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/04 Lead O/S
APAPAP 25/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 27/May/04 2nd
just one more 23/Apr/04 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Hidden 23/Apr/04 -
goi.ashmore 14/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead
guy xavier percival 11/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with rob
_m.cox_ ??/2003 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 -
Billg 15/Oct/00 Lead
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2000 Lead O/S
KRB 12/Nov/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Pickford
John Southworth 10/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
T ny ??/1999 -
richsmithinbristol 14/May/97 Lead O/S
migs493 20/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Steve Blake
phardman 14/Oct/95 Lead
Didymus 14/Jun/95 Lead RP

Took a fall onto peg but got it second go (then graded E2 5c)

with Chris
chris sm 15/Jan/95 2nd dog
with Andy Gill
charlesmfrench 27/Sep/94 2nd O/S
with Cliff
Michael Hood 29/Jun/94 Lead
Didymus 12/Mar/94 2nd rpt
NeilGriffiths 12/Mar/94 Lead
with paul, jon, marion
Didymus 26/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with Martin
ericinbristol ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Sue L
Neil McA 24/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Beak 2
AndySL 11/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Mark
mattnuttall 23/Jul/91 2nd O/S
with Matthieu Mounier
Hidden 08/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/90 Lead O/S
RichardMc 18/Mar/90 2nd
with Dayle Millcott
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/86 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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