UKC

77m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A bold, airy and super sustained voyage. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.
1) 5b, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to gain the right end of an overlap (small cams in the break). Move up right past the right side of the overlap (peg), and then back left to a side-pull and wire. Head up to join and follow Malbogies to its first stance.
2) 5b, 28m. Down climb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb a groove (peg) to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.
3) 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill 01/May/1966.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sasuke3333 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Brambles are partially cleared but still grim ... Un advisable to do naked.
βeta?
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βeta: Brambles are partially cleared but still grim ... Un advisable to do naked.
Steve Claw 3 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Properly cleared the brambles from the top (June 2020). Still ok now.
βeta?
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βeta: Properly cleared the brambles from the top (June 2020). Still ok now.
Ell 28 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I heartily second the feedback from masa-alpin. Prepare for some bullshit gardening on one of the Avon's finest top-outs.
βeta?
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βeta: I heartily second the feedback from masa-alpin. Prepare for some bullshit gardening on one of the Avon's finest top-outs.
masa-alpin 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle as of 2019 August. Malbogies Direct Start is OK. At the top, we had to go through horrendous (and painful) brambly bush as of 2019 August.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle as of 2019 August. Malbogies Direct Start is OK. At the top, we had to go through horrendous (and painful) brambly bush as of 2019 August.

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High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
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Route of Interest
Smaug The Dragon

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Goblin Combe)

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