Rockfax Description
A fascinating outing that takes in plenty of exciting situations and has some surprisingly difficult moves. The first pitch is at the top of the grade and care is needed to protect the second on the traverses on pitches 3 and 4. Start at a short, well-scratched thin crack.
1) 4c, 26m. Climb up past the crack and continue in the same line to a peg and a couple of good nuts just above. Gain the ledge above via a perplexing move before heading left to a short corner that ends at vegetated ledges. Various belays.
2) 4b, 10m. Above are two corners right of a big blank wall with bolts in it. Climb up the right-hand corner for a metre or so and move right out to the arete and flake crack just beyond. Climb the flake crack to a good ledge in a corner up and left. Poor belays.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb out right and make some awkward moves diagonally rightwards to a perch on a small ledge. Step down and right and move into the wide corner-crack which is climbed to a ledge belay. It is probably wise to place a runner in the diagonal break above the belay in order to protect the second on the traverse.
4) 4b, 20m. Follow the exposed left-trending diagonal breaks with good gear and holds to a belay.
5) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner above the tree to the first overhang, pull left to an easy gully and finish up this, © Rockfax
B Annette, M Thompson Feb/1961.
Ticklists
Avon Gorge non-Extremes , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , CUMC Ticklist , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Classic VS's , 2020/21 Trips , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , BSR multipitch routes , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , 22 For 2022 , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Somerset Sufferfest , Avon GORGEous
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| jamesb101 | 1 Oct |
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βeta: Great route with a spicy (but great) traverse | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route with a spicy (but great) traverse |
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| jwtbids | 23 Sep |
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βeta: fell on first pitch piton and badly broke ankle, be careful | βeta? | |
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βeta: fell on first pitch piton and badly broke ankle, be careful |
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| Gazmataz | 6 Mar |
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βeta: We had to abandon due to injury and failing light. Left an anchor at belay 2. Would much appreciate it if you find it. Thanks | βeta? | |
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βeta: We had to abandon due to injury and failing light. Left an anchor at belay 2. Would much appreciate it if you find it. Thanks |
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| KKormos | 2 Jan |
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βeta: Great climbing with some awesome exposure. Make sure to take plenty of small wires. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great climbing with some awesome exposure. Make sure to take plenty of small wires. |
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| Mbowell | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Tree at end of the long traverse pitch is now gone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tree at end of the long traverse pitch is now gone. |
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| Colin Knowles | 11 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Another belay alternative at the end of the long traverse is to use the sturdy hawthorn below the defunct ash along with cam placements in the traverse | ||
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βeta: Another belay alternative at the end of the long traverse is to use the sturdy hawthorn below the defunct ash along with cam placements in the traverse |
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| Steve Bartle | 21 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: The tree 'belay' at the end of the big traverse (P3 if using the newer Avon guide, P4 in the UKC description) is really bad and half rotten at the base, so don't use that as a belay. Good nut placements in the crack above | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The tree 'belay' at the end of the big traverse (P3 if using the newer Avon guide, P4 in the UKC description) is really bad and half rotten at the base, so don't use that as a belay. Good nut placements in the crack above |
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| supermembrane | 19 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Great fun. Varied climbing with plenty of excitement. Interesting move on p1 above the peg. The first traverse to the right felt nice and exposed with no gear. Be careful not to climb too high up beforehand and miss the step down. Final traverse was superb | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great fun. Varied climbing with plenty of excitement. Interesting move on p1 above the peg. The first traverse to the right felt nice and exposed with no gear. Be careful not to climb too high up beforehand and miss the step down. Final traverse was superb |
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| jing | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Rockfax topo incorrect on P3. The traverse line to the right is too high in the picture. You need to step down lower than that. Our leader went straight to the traverse on P4 following some chalk marks. It's possible but much harder than VS. we tried the finger traverse matching the rockfax topo but it isn't plausible at VS. Stepping lower than the topo matches the description and feels VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo incorrect on P3. The traverse line to the right is too high in the picture. You need to step down lower than that. Our leader went straight to the traverse on P4 following some chalk marks. It's possible but much harder than VS. we tried the finger traverse matching the rockfax topo but it isn't plausible at VS. Stepping lower than the topo matches the description and feels VS. |
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| harrylusted | 28 Dec, 2019 |
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βeta: Got lost going up instead of down before the first traverse. Nearly cried. Great route | ||
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βeta: Got lost going up instead of down before the first traverse. Nearly cried. Great route |
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| chigozie | 21 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: The traverse across a slab on pitch 3 is tricky and unprotected, easier (though less fun) to go lower rather than crimping the horizontal crack | ||
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βeta: The traverse across a slab on pitch 3 is tricky and unprotected, easier (though less fun) to go lower rather than crimping the horizontal crack |
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| plant_based_tommo | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: pretty spices for VS | βeta? | |
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βeta: pretty spices for VS |
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| brrrake | 29 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Pitch 3 could use some smaller wires (micro stoppers?) in places. The end of P3 felt pretty exposed, but none of the moves particularly difficult. Don\'t forget to bring cash for ice cream at the top- they didn\'t take card :[ | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 3 could use some smaller wires (micro stoppers?) in places. The end of P3 felt pretty exposed, but none of the moves particularly difficult. Don't forget to bring cash for ice cream at the top- they didn't take card :[ |
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Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area)
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Giant's Cave Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))