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40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb bold and memorable climb taking the blank wall and soaring groove right of Ffoeg's Folly. Start right of the 'starfish' graffiti at the base of the open corner of Ffoeg's Folly.
1) 5b, 16m. Move right up an easy sloping ramp to its highest point and then make some fingery wall moves to easier ground and the first belay of Ffoeg's Folly. This is a very bold pitch that is unprotected and is often swapped for the first pitch of Ffoeg's Folly.
2) 5c, 24m. Traverse right and climb up to reach a bolt on the left rib of the lower groove, move right and up to a small overhang. Enter the groove above with difficulty and climb boldly to a peg. Continue up the narrowing groove that curves right, before heading up a short corner on the left with a hard-to-spot ring peg at its top, then take the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © Rockfax


Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Becky's ticklist, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), So you think your an Avon Climber?


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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Krapp's Last Tape

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))