A Sea Walls classic that sees plenty of action. The climbing is bold on the third pitch but is fairly straightforward and not polished. Start at a short wall just right of a thin crack, as for Morpheus.
1) 4a, 18m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut-runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner and follow this for 5m to a belay ledge and rock spike.
2) 16m. Move leftwards up a smooth slab to a broken corner-line, follow this to a good ledge and belay on its right side. The lower belay nuts are poor but the best placement is just above and not easily seen when standing on the belay ledge.
3) 17m. Climb the right-trending slabs above in a fine position, but with no protection, to a good crack where the wall steepens. A quick pull gains a belay ledge.
4) 4a, 10m. Climb the steep, well-protected corner-crack behind the belay to finish. © Rockfax
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon sub-VSes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, I want a Pasty!, Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS, Avon Gorge easier classics, The Avon Gorge Severe Challenge
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