Rockfax Description
A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance.
2) 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
CAUTION - Peg 1 replaced, but peg 2 is gone, and peg 3 is useless. Use a wide bandwidth to find some protection, this is currently an extremely bold route.
E Ward Drummond, P Morgan, C Woodhead (1 pt aid) May/1967.
West Country Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , South West in Extremis
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ellis Bird | 15 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Something didn’t seem quite right! The tree at 3m wasn’t there and the initial grove had loose rock and dirty. Managed to climb up to the first old peg (bold) with no other gear and then faced with committing moves with just an old peg. Chose the safer option and retreated up the VS! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Something didn’t seem quite right! The tree at 3m wasn’t there and the initial grove had loose rock and dirty. Managed to climb up to the first old peg (bold) with no other gear and then faced with committing moves with just an old peg. Chose the safer option and retreated up the VS! |
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Buzzard Quarry)