UKC

55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.
1) 10m. Climb up rightwards on easy but vegetated ground to a good belay ledge right of a projecting block.
2) 4c, 27m. Continue above the belay and take the line left of the overhang (double pegs) that ends at a bulge. Move right and up past a peg with difficulty to an open corner and belay ledge.
3) 4c, 18m. Climb up to the overhang, pegs, and traverse left beneath them for 6m to where they fade. Move up past double pegs to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

M Thompson, R Harris 1961.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will789 10 Feb Show βeta
βeta: The large foot block at the start of the traverse on the final pitch is badly loose and will do serious damage to the belayer if it comes off. Thankfully there’s plenty of other good options so just take your time and avoid it
Show beta
βeta: The large foot block at the start of the traverse on the final pitch is badly loose and will do serious damage to the belayer if it comes off. Thankfully there’s plenty of other good options so just take your time and avoid it
lieraza 11 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite scary in its current form, P2 has big run out between pegs (where the blocks used to be) - climbing not too tricky but you wouldn't want to goose it up ... P3: contains a loose block; is very peg-dependent (and pegs are looking a bit aged). EDIT: believe a new peg has arrived on P2 (thanks Colin), haven't climbed it again yet but presume is nicer now.
Show beta
βeta: Quite scary in its current form, P2 has big run out between pegs (where the blocks used to be) - climbing not too tricky but you wouldn't want to goose it up ... P3: contains a loose block; is very peg-dependent (and pegs are looking a bit aged). EDIT: believe a new peg has arrived on P2 (thanks Colin), haven't climbed it again yet but presume is nicer now.
mountaindavet 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some of the blocks on the first 4c pitch have fallen down and the route is now bolder. The block on the second 4c pitch that you put gear in before doing the traverse is loose. This route is now quite dangerous at the VS grade.
Show beta
βeta: Some of the blocks on the first 4c pitch have fallen down and the route is now bolder. The block on the second 4c pitch that you put gear in before doing the traverse is loose. This route is now quite dangerous at the VS grade.
Jonno30 8 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Got stuck trying to gain the triangular ledge on p2. Guidebook says: \'Take the borehole above two scoops and then step right. Move up a scoop and use a jammed (you hope!) flake to step up right onto a small triangular ledge on a slight exposed arête.\' Checked the photos on UKC and I think the jammed flake and another block that match the description have fallen down. There\'s a couple of blocks on the ground that have distinct mineral markings that match those on the rocks in the triangular ledge area. Couldn\'t figure out the new sequence and downclimbed but think it\'s do able if you don\'t mind a further bold move.
Show beta
βeta: Got stuck trying to gain the triangular ledge on p2. Guidebook says: 'Take the borehole above two scoops and then step right. Move up a scoop and use a jammed (you hope!) flake to step up right onto a small triangular ledge on a slight exposed arête.' Checked the photos on UKC and I think the jammed flake and another block that match the description have fallen down. There's a couple of blocks on the ground that have distinct mineral markings that match those on the rocks in the triangular ledge area. Couldn't figure out the new sequence and downclimbed but think it's do able if you don't mind a further bold move.
RSabin 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock right at the begginning of pitch. Plenty of pegs to cover pitches two and three so very little gear needed, although they seem flaky so maybe it´s a good idea to add some extra protection for safety.
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock right at the begginning of pitch. Plenty of pegs to cover pitches two and three so very little gear needed, although they seem flaky so maybe it´s a good idea to add some extra protection for safety.

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High HVS
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 70
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Giant's Cave Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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