UKC

80m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and very popular route most suited to those who appreciate an audience. The climbing is fairly tricky in places but the belays are comfortable and the views of the suspension bridge spectacular. Start on a sloping ledge at the toe of the buttress with good nut belays in a small corner.
1) 4c, 25m. Move up and step right to a small corner just right of the arete. Make some technical moves on sloping holds up the small corner, before it becomes possible to move back left onto the front face of the buttress and climb a narrow corner to a bulging arete above, peg. Pull awkwardly left around the arete and climb to easier ground that leads to a large belay beneath an overhang.
2) 4a, 23m. Skirt the overhang on the left before heading back right and following short walls and ledges up to another large belay ledge below an overhanging wall.
3) 4c, 25m. Pull left around the arete to a hand-ledge and make a difficult move up to attain a standing position on it. Move left a little way to a corner and climb up to a ledge. Continue up the wall above to a corner and climb this before trending slightly right to the top. © Rockfax

A Hicklin, F E Bennett 1958.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Avon VSes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Avon VS challenge, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff), CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, South West Classic VS's, UK Sandbags, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS, Avon Gorge easier classics, Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett

Feedback

User Date Notes
KieranFussell 14 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Bring some shears because you're going in the jungle
βeta?
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βeta: Bring some shears because you're going in the jungle
laughitup 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: There is an ants nest at the stance before the final pitch. Luckily they are not biters but still makes for an interesting belay.
βeta?
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βeta: There is an ants nest at the stance before the final pitch. Luckily they are not biters but still makes for an interesting belay.
Hal Mungbean 27 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Exfoliating rock from start of pitch 2 (holds for exposed moves around arĂȘte), removed 3 loose pieces but may be more to come, take care.
βeta?
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βeta: Exfoliating rock from start of pitch 2 (holds for exposed moves around arĂȘte), removed 3 loose pieces but may be more to come, take care.
jamie_bkc 6 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Evidence of freshly tumbled choss adjacent to the line in a couple of places. Easy to go off route to avoid polish at this angle, take care.
βeta?
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βeta: Evidence of freshly tumbled choss adjacent to the line in a couple of places. Easy to go off route to avoid polish at this angle, take care.
jing 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold at the start of P1, another one when you move left to the front of rib. Generally a little bit loose - so be careful! Still a good route though.
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βeta: Loose hold at the start of P1, another one when you move left to the front of rib. Generally a little bit loose - so be careful! Still a good route though.
Nickuk 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Started in the rain and ended in the sun. Some good heart flutter moments on each pitch. Almost lost a nut and a shoe. Thanks to the guys following for retrieving both. Probably favourite of the gorge so far
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βeta: Started in the rain and ended in the sun. Some good heart flutter moments on each pitch. Almost lost a nut and a shoe. Thanks to the guys following for retrieving both. Probably favourite of the gorge so far
plant_based_tommo 24 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A touch airy at times.
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βeta: A touch airy at times.
Alistair Cole 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Big loose chunk of rock at the start of second pitch, second pitch generally a bit loose.
βeta?
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βeta: Big loose chunk of rock at the start of second pitch, second pitch generally a bit loose.
alvaroBV 29 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock on last pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Loose rock on last pitch
Phil Murray 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No pegs at 1st belay anymore. Build one. and make it good.
βeta?
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βeta: No pegs at 1st belay anymore. Build one. and make it good.

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