UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
One of the Avon Gorge's most famous pitches that usually pulls in a crowd of viewers on the suspension bridge. Start on a good ledge 5m right of the arete below a pocketed crystal crack and just right of a vegetated groove.
Move up the crack and then head left to a small groove that leads to a ledge system at 10m. Head left to the arete and make some tricky moves to a wide, pocketed runnel. Take the runnel to a horizontal break and move right into an easier finishing corner. Belay and abseil post on the left. © Rockfax

M W Harvey 1956.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff) , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber? , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Psyched 13 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Great climb, massive threads just before the bold move(s) making it feel very safe. A pigeon flew out and hit me in the face which was fun! - no sign of nesting birds on the route itself, but a fair few birds on and around the cliff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb, massive threads just before the bold move(s) making it feel very safe. A pigeon flew out and hit me in the face which was fun! - no sign of nesting birds on the route itself, but a fair few birds on and around the cliff.
Steve Bartle 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nest with four or five eggs. Avoid climbing this route for now (i.e. at least a month)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nest with four or five eggs. Avoid climbing this route for now (i.e. at least a month)
Nickuk 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Please avoid climbing there at the moment. Multiple nests with eggs
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Please avoid climbing there at the moment. Multiple nests with eggs
Fakey Rocks 5 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Please do not climb until end of June, unavoidable Jackdaws nest in hole near top of groove, with Juvenile that has yet to fly. https://britishwildlife.fandom.com/wiki/Jackdaw
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Please do not climb until end of June, unavoidable Jackdaws nest in hole near top of groove, with Juvenile that has yet to fly. https://britishwildlife.fandom.com/wiki/Jackdaw
knighty 18 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pigeon nesting beyond the top of the chimney section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pigeon nesting beyond the top of the chimney section.

Logged Ascents

1173 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 147
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 137
Votes cast 131
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Malbogies

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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