Rockfax Description
A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line.
Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.
1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax
Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , 2020/21 Trips , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes , Avon GORGEous
User | Date | Notes | ||
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just one more | 14 Jul |
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βeta: Most of the major loose stuff cleared on abseil, as in all the man sized blocks! Still smaller stuff to go and dirty, not the E1 classic it once was,at the moment, hopefully it will settle down | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Most of the major loose stuff cleared on abseil, as in all the man sized blocks! Still smaller stuff to go and dirty, not the E1 classic it once was,at the moment, hopefully it will settle down |
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just one more | 10 Jul |
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βeta: As reported already, there is a lot of loose rock on the crux, where you pull right out of the large pockets. Hard to avoid and it's big, go very steady! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: As reported already, there is a lot of loose rock on the crux, where you pull right out of the large pockets. Hard to avoid and it's big, go very steady! |
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Jakaitch | 5 Jul |
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βeta: Pulled off a shoebox size block around the first belay. Take care! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a shoebox size block around the first belay. Take care! |
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Evieosborn | 3 May |
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βeta: Pulled a head sized block off just after you step right after the crux (about 7m up from the overhang) there’s a fairly obvious muddy scar from where it came off but there’s defo some other loose blocks in the same place that will easily come off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a head sized block off just after you step right after the crux (about 7m up from the overhang) there’s a fairly obvious muddy scar from where it came off but there’s defo some other loose blocks in the same place that will easily come off. |
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tomhepworth | 6 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor. |
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chigozie | 7 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro! |
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Grade: E1 ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)