UKC

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line.
Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.
1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , 2020/21 Trips , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes , Avon GORGEous

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User Date Notes
sashbones 2 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Looser than usual on P1 mind
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looser than usual on P1 mind
just one more 14 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Most of the major loose stuff cleared on abseil, as in all the man sized blocks! Still smaller stuff to go and dirty, not the E1 classic it once was,at the moment, hopefully it will settle down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Most of the major loose stuff cleared on abseil, as in all the man sized blocks! Still smaller stuff to go and dirty, not the E1 classic it once was,at the moment, hopefully it will settle down
just one more 10 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: As reported already, there is a lot of loose rock on the crux, where you pull right out of the large pockets. Hard to avoid and it's big, go very steady!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As reported already, there is a lot of loose rock on the crux, where you pull right out of the large pockets. Hard to avoid and it's big, go very steady!
jackholcombe 5 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a shoebox size block around the first belay. Take care!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a shoebox size block around the first belay. Take care!
Evieosborn 3 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a head sized block off just after you step right after the crux (about 7m up from the overhang) there’s a fairly obvious muddy scar from where it came off but there’s defo some other loose blocks in the same place that will easily come off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a head sized block off just after you step right after the crux (about 7m up from the overhang) there’s a fairly obvious muddy scar from where it came off but there’s defo some other loose blocks in the same place that will easily come off.
tomhepworth 6 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the rock quality at the top (ledge below bridge) to be a bit questionable in places when making an anchor.
chigozie 7 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broke a peg at the top of the first pitch. Make sure to back up the pegs with your own pro!

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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
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Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
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Votes cast 97
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 91
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Frome Valley Assault Course Challenge

Grade: E1 ***
(Snuff Mills Park)

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