UKC

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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
The sister route to Ben is an equally fine experience with the same combination of sustained climbing and good gear. Low in the grade. Start just left of the lowest section of the ledge.
Climb the crack rightwards to the left of a square-cut overlap at 8m. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , 50 more great HS routes , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rhys.Roberts 6 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Top section is a tad loose in placces and sounds hollow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top section is a tad loose in placces and sounds hollow.
Mr MRS 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A big chunk of loose ledge near the topout.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A big chunk of loose ledge near the topout.
Steve Bartle 15 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good, but the top is very bold and the line fades out a bit. Watch what flakes you pull on near the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good, but the top is very bold and the line fades out a bit. Watch what flakes you pull on near the top

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 96
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Groove

Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)

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