Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
The sister route to Ben is an equally fine experience with the same combination of sustained climbing and good gear. Low in the grade. Start just left of the lowest section of the ledge.
Climb the crack rightwards to the left of a square-cut overlap at 8m. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , 50 more great HS routes , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents