Rockfax Description
Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to a niche then follow a thin crack to ledges. Move back out left for a reachy exposed finale if required. Some care is needed with the protection as wires in the niche tend to lift out. © Rockfax
FA. Hugh Banner 1960.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , ULMC Classics , Bamford Edge , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford Bucks Challenge, chasing stars.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Moi_taiga | 24 Sep |
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βeta: The block at half height will come away if given a strong pull. Don't place gear behind it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The block at half height will come away if given a strong pull. Don't place gear behind it! |
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| pattif | 3 Jun |
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βeta: nice and steady lead, good protection all the way up … and I am under 5‘6‘‘ (an alien or nut can be placed) | ||
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βeta: nice and steady lead, good protection all the way up … and I am under 5‘6‘‘ (an alien or nut can be placed) |
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| Queen of the Traverse | 7 Apr |
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βeta: If you can't reach to get off the ledge about halfway up it's a lot harder than Severe! | ||
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βeta: If you can't reach to get off the ledge about halfway up it's a lot harder than Severe! |
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| Durkules | 24 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Block a short way up seems very loose and insecure. I climbed this about a year ago and can't remember it moving as much then, so may have dislodged more recently. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Block a short way up seems very loose and insecure. I climbed this about a year ago and can't remember it moving as much then, so may have dislodged more recently. |
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| LouiseCowie | 8 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The block at the top of the first curved flake with the big juggy boss sounds very hollow and the next climber after us reckoned it moved. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The block at the top of the first curved flake with the big juggy boss sounds very hollow and the next climber after us reckoned it moved. |
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| Punkey_Muzzle | 6 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Small block in middle section of climb that feels loose, easy to avoid though | βeta? | |
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βeta: Small block in middle section of climb that feels loose, easy to avoid though |
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| Andy Peak 1 | 13 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Lose block on ledge at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lose block on ledge at the top |
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| Paul Tomo | 24 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it. |
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| Dominion | 7 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit. I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit. I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead... |
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| fizz | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :) |
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| LakesWinter | 26 May, 2005 |
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βeta: This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question |
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| Jon Greengrass | 1 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bamford Edge
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Balcony Buttress
Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)