UKC

Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Classic. Start up Brown's Crack, then follow the ramp left and tackle the crack that splits the bulge. Well protected but quite taxing. It may be the best VS on the crag, who knows? © Rockfax

FA. Brian Evans 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , ULMC Classics , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford

Feedback

User Date Notes
MNA123 4 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found this quite easy actually, loads of gear and just layback the top crack, great route though, but no more then 4c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this quite easy actually, loads of gear and just layback the top crack, great route though, but no more then 4c.
Lizard 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great little route with a nicely positioned crux that's steep but very well protected and with excellent holds. I thought only 4c but definitely 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great little route with a nicely positioned crux that's steep but very well protected and with excellent holds. I thought only 4c but definitely 3 stars.
Si dH 31 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: yer id probably go for 5a, but well protected and a one move wonder so middling VS id say. lovely route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: yer id probably go for 5a, but well protected and a one move wonder so middling VS id say. lovely route.
shaun walby 7 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best VS ive done, easy going lower down then comes the bulge, easily protected but requires a bold approach...dont forget to take in the view across ladybower...joy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best VS ive done, easy going lower down then comes the bulge, easily protected but requires a bold approach...dont forget to take in the view across ladybower...joy
Nick Smith - Climbers 29 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The final steep crack can be desperate without the 'right' approach!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The final steep crack can be desperate without the 'right' approach!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bamford Edge

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 283
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 275
Votes cast 266
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inaccessible Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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