Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Rockfax Description
Follow Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit to the roof and then execute a tricky traverse right out to the arete. Make a difficult clip and then pull up past the roof on good holds to finish at the lower-off shared with Latest Craze. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awkward grovel of a start (shared with "Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit") to some amenable bridging up the corner then a balancey traverse right to the arete. The clip over the roof may be problematic. Lower off the same anchor as "Latest Craze" to the right. 5 bolts + lower-off.

Martin J Crocker 16/Jul/1988.


CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , 7As with stars near Bristol


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High 7b
Mid 7b
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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
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