UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
15m.

Rockfax Description
An intricate leftward traverse above the lip gains some more technical and powerful moves up the arete and its right wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start two metres left of a broken corner, pull up into slight cracks. Then move leftwards along lip of the roof to the sharp arete of the buttress. Snatch and balance up right-hand side of the arete to an abseil station

Martin J Crocker 09/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Ban-y-Gor Master , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 7Bs with stars near Bristol , Bristol Sport Pyramid , Twenty for ‘24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daniel Heber 19 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Happy to get this in 2 sessions. Needed to work out a lot of beta before it went however.
βeta?
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βeta: Happy to get this in 2 sessions. Needed to work out a lot of beta before it went however.
plant_based_tommo 8 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: some potential for a nasty pendulum if you fall on to the 2nd bolt. recommend belayer stands up to right to facilitate a softer catch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: some potential for a nasty pendulum if you fall on to the 2nd bolt. recommend belayer stands up to right to facilitate a softer catch.

Logged Ascents

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