UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
11m.

Rockfax Description
Move up the wall to below the right-hand side of the overhang and then yard out along the lip and pull up to the ledge with a tree growing on it. Finish up the wall. Starting on the right of the lower wall and moving up to the overhang reduces the grade to 6b. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A one move wonder, climbing rock overhanging the climbers path.

Gary Gibson, Roy Thomas 10/May/1992.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
JamesAsh 3 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Super fun moves, for sure worth doing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super fun moves, for sure worth doing
Simon Kitt 14 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Joyfully overhanding and juggy. Lots of fun cut loose without too much fore arm pump.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Joyfully overhanding and juggy. Lots of fun cut loose without too much fore arm pump.
Imedio 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The move to the first hold on the over hang (right of the second bolt) is a reachy left hand followed by a match on a REALLY good jug. Go again with the left to reach the upper of two ledges. Then just reach up and mantel. Geeat climb.
Show beta
βeta: The move to the first hold on the over hang (right of the second bolt) is a reachy left hand followed by a match on a REALLY good jug. Go again with the left to reach the upper of two ledges. Then just reach up and mantel. Geeat climb.
Saqib 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly run out
Show beta
βeta: Slightly run out
springfall2008 4 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climb the pillar until you reach the good hold out right, then step left to the pocket (clip), match and put your left hand on the lower ledge, feet break free, now again match and then hands up to the higher good ledge, swing your feet up and stand up.
Show beta
βeta: Climb the pillar until you reach the good hold out right, then step left to the pocket (clip), match and put your left hand on the lower ledge, feet break free, now again match and then hands up to the higher good ledge, swing your feet up and stand up.
leigh 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Left hand start - harder
Show beta
βeta: Left hand start - harder

Logged Ascents

605 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 76 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heady Days

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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