Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Rockfax Description
Pull up into a short right-facing corner and then move steeply up right to below a wall. Use a pocket to pass the wall and reach the break. Step left and proceed up to good holds from where a thin crack allows good finishing holds to be gained. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at a bolt belay on the traversing ledge. Climb up to the crawl and clip a bolt above in a shallow right-facing corner. Layback up to a break then climb diagonally up rightwards through the overlaps to reach a two-finger pocket in an otherwise blank wall below a break. Stuff in two fingers and crank for the break.Step left and climb up to good holds, then follow a thin crack to reach finishing jugs.

Martin J Crocker, Matt Ward 03/Jul/1988.


Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol Bangers , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , 7Bs with stars near Bristol


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Too Hot to Touch

Grade: 7b ***

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