UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
A bouldery mission with three hard sections, the final sequence involving a big span. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Front face of buttress with desperate and height-dependant finale.
Starts 3m to the right of the double bolt belay of "Too hot to touch". Pull through the starting roof, and climb to the thin break benath an overlap. Continue up to the next wide break, and navigate the final face to the pig tail lower off.

Gary Gibson 25/May/2012.

Ticklists

Ban-y-Gor Master , 8s with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daniel Heber 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: My First 8a! As such I don't feel completely qualified to cast my vote on the grade. I will say however, that it came as a surprise to see the climb receive so many votes in the 7c-7c+ range because I thought it was absolutely nails and much harder than any 7c I've tried. Furthermore the final boulder problem requires a huge reach which would have felt impossible for me if I was any shorter. When I first tried the climb, both the middle and top crux felt absolutely impossible to me and I almost gave up. Luckily I gave it another shot and managed to work out the middle crux and found a hold which made the top possible as well. Because I nearly gave up through not knowing the beta I have decided to give my beta on here in case it helps anyone else who is thinking of giving up like I was! Middle boulder problem: Left hand on crimp over the break underneath the clip, right hand up to the rightwards side pull. Grab this side high. Work both feet up onto the polished bit under the break Put right heel into the bottom of the right side pull Pull and catch the small sloper high to the left Pull again to catch the large textured sloper up and right Then stand on the starting crimp to reach the break Top Boulder problem: Left hand to obvious crimp over the break. Bring left foot up quite high to small long crease underneath the break Grab the underside of the break with right hand (marked with chalk when I did it) and step up onto left foot From here, using the undercut of the break, reach to the high and obvious left crimp Grab right hand crimp next to the right and use the pocket to reach the top crimp to clip
Show beta
βeta: My First 8a! As such I don't feel completely qualified to cast my vote on the grade. I will say however, that it came as a surprise to see the climb receive so many votes in the 7c-7c+ range because I thought it was absolutely nails and much harder than any 7c I've tried. Furthermore the final boulder problem requires a huge reach which would have felt impossible for me if I was any shorter. When I first tried the climb, both the middle and top crux felt absolutely impossible to me and I almost gave up. Luckily I gave it another shot and managed to work out the middle crux and found a hold which made the top possible as well. Because I nearly gave up through not knowing the beta I have decided to give my beta on here in case it helps anyone else who is thinking of giving up like I was! Middle boulder problem: Left hand on crimp over the break underneath the clip, right hand up to the rightwards side pull. Grab this side high. Work both feet up onto the polished bit under the break Put right heel into the bottom of the right side pull Pull and catch the small sloper high to the left Pull again to catch the large textured sloper up and right Then stand on the starting crimp to reach the break Top Boulder problem: Left hand to obvious crimp over the break. Bring left foot up quite high to small long crease underneath the break Grab the underside of the break with right hand (marked with chalk when I did it) and step up onto left foot From here, using the undercut of the break, reach to the high and obvious left crimp Grab right hand crimp next to the right and use the pocket to reach the top crimp to clip

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Route of Interest
Match Point

Grade: 8a ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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