Rockfax Description
Exciting situations combined with technical climbing. Climb up and stretch past the low roof. Continue up the sustained wall to a blanker section of rock. Clip a high bolt, then traverse left on finger pockets before rocking up into a small corner. A final balancy wall and roof round off this great pitch. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 14/Apr/1993.
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Trip , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland Climbs , 2021 Ticklist , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Ones to smash out! , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Paddy Bos Coe | 9 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: This took me 4 sessions. Probably the hardest route I've climbed in Portland to date (low 7b?). It went easy in the end (as is so often the way). The trick for me was to climb fast. It's a lovely route on excellent rock. The pockets are strangely satisfying. Kinda sad I've done it tbh. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This took me 4 sessions. Probably the hardest route I've climbed in Portland to date (low 7b?). It went easy in the end (as is so often the way). The trick for me was to climb fast. It's a lovely route on excellent rock. The pockets are strangely satisfying. Kinda sad I've done it tbh. |
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Will Miles | 6 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Pulled a big ol' hold off from before the crux on 2/6/22. The bugs had hollowed out all the way around the back of it. Don't think grade is affected too much. Have left the hold at the bottom though in case anyone with resin wants to put it back. Please wear your helmets on this one! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a big ol' hold off from before the crux on 2/6/22. The bugs had hollowed out all the way around the back of it. Don't think grade is affected too much. Have left the hold at the bottom though in case anyone with resin wants to put it back. Please wear your helmets on this one! |
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alexbooker87 | 4 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Pulled a plate-sized flake off just before the crux, looked like it was previously sika'd. Doesn't change the grade or climbing. There was a fair amount of rubber on it so some people were using it previously. Don't forget your helmet belayers! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a plate-sized flake off just before the crux, looked like it was previously sika'd. Doesn't change the grade or climbing. There was a fair amount of rubber on it so some people were using it previously. Don't forget your helmet belayers! |
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ericinbristol | 20 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Some weird bolting at I think the third bolt, where there is a bolt on the left and a bolt on the right. The route goes up between the two bolts and you need to really extend the draw on the left to avoid rope drag. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some weird bolting at I think the third bolt, where there is a bolt on the left and a bolt on the right. The route goes up between the two bolts and you need to really extend the draw on the left to avoid rope drag. |
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Adam Lincoln | 14 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: 7b of anyones money! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 7b of anyones money! |
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Ben Stokes | 14 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Unfortunately sport routes are graded for the easiest method. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Unfortunately sport routes are graded for the easiest method. |
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doylo | 29 Aug, 2001 |
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βeta: I thought routes were graded for an onsight ascent! Felt like 7b too! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought routes were graded for an onsight ascent! Felt like 7b too! |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Edge)