UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
Exciting situations combined with technical climbing. Climb up and stretch past the low roof. Continue up the sustained wall to a blanker section of rock. Clip a high bolt, then traverse left on finger pockets before rocking up into a small corner. A final balancy wall and roof round off this great pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14/Apr/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Trip , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland Climbs , 2021 Ticklist , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Ones to smash out! , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paddy Bos Coe 9 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This took me 4 sessions. Probably the hardest route I've climbed in Portland to date (low 7b?). It went easy in the end (as is so often the way). The trick for me was to climb fast. It's a lovely route on excellent rock. The pockets are strangely satisfying. Kinda sad I've done it tbh.
βeta?
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βeta: This took me 4 sessions. Probably the hardest route I've climbed in Portland to date (low 7b?). It went easy in the end (as is so often the way). The trick for me was to climb fast. It's a lovely route on excellent rock. The pockets are strangely satisfying. Kinda sad I've done it tbh.
Will Miles 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a big ol' hold off from before the crux on 2/6/22. The bugs had hollowed out all the way around the back of it. Don't think grade is affected too much. Have left the hold at the bottom though in case anyone with resin wants to put it back. Please wear your helmets on this one!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a big ol' hold off from before the crux on 2/6/22. The bugs had hollowed out all the way around the back of it. Don't think grade is affected too much. Have left the hold at the bottom though in case anyone with resin wants to put it back. Please wear your helmets on this one!
alexbooker87 4 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a plate-sized flake off just before the crux, looked like it was previously sika'd. Doesn't change the grade or climbing. There was a fair amount of rubber on it so some people were using it previously. Don't forget your helmet belayers!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a plate-sized flake off just before the crux, looked like it was previously sika'd. Doesn't change the grade or climbing. There was a fair amount of rubber on it so some people were using it previously. Don't forget your helmet belayers!
ericinbristol 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some weird bolting at I think the third bolt, where there is a bolt on the left and a bolt on the right. The route goes up between the two bolts and you need to really extend the draw on the left to avoid rope drag.
βeta?
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βeta: Some weird bolting at I think the third bolt, where there is a bolt on the left and a bolt on the right. The route goes up between the two bolts and you need to really extend the draw on the left to avoid rope drag.
Adam Lincoln 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 7b of anyones money!
βeta?
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βeta: 7b of anyones money!
Ben Stokes 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately sport routes are graded for the easiest method.
βeta?
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βeta: Unfortunately sport routes are graded for the easiest method.
doylo 29 Aug, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: I thought routes were graded for an onsight ascent! Felt like 7b too!
βeta?
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βeta: I thought routes were graded for an onsight ascent! Felt like 7b too!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Battleship Back Cliff

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 127
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troll Team Special

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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