Loading Notifications...
14m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the thin crack and wall above. For the technically proficient a problem start is available on the right at a tough and rounded f5+. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Consolidation and developmental path to VS, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Having just re-done the 5c start, this variation is harder than the Bulbous Bow, so the route with that start should get E1 rather than VS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Having just re-done the 5c start, this variation is harder than the Bulbous Bow, so the route with that start should get E1 rather than VS!
Pythonist 15 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Technical gradings are bang on for all the variations. Comparable to the other VSs at Birchen, and the variations are definitely 5b on the left and 5c on the right. However, the 5b is pretty much the same move as the E1 (5c) next door... I wouldn't argue if this got dwon-graded to HS, though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Technical gradings are bang on for all the variations. Comparable to the other VSs at Birchen, and the variations are definitely 5b on the left and 5c on the right. However, the 5b is pretty much the same move as the E1 (5c) next door... I wouldn't argue if this got dwon-graded to HS, though.
Jon Stewart 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yep, totally overgraded and over starred. But what about the problem starts? I think it's 5a on the left and bloody difficult (harder than 5c) on the right (i.e. i couldn't do it).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: yep, totally overgraded and over starred. But what about the problem starts? I think it's 5a on the left and bloody difficult (harder than 5c) on the right (i.e. i couldn't do it).
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i thought the hardest bit was the start but i did wen i was 13 a few yrs ago. definately overgraded
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i thought the hardest bit was the start but i did wen i was 13 a few yrs ago. definately overgraded
Ander 15 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: James's comments struck a cord. I didn't do the File, but did it's near neighbour The Rat's Tail. And to say that is anything like the same should confer a custodial sentance.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: James's comments struck a cord. I didn't do the File, but did it's near neighbour The Rat's Tail. And to say that is anything like the same should confer a custodial sentance.
The old James turnbull 28 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: this graded the same as the file at higgar tor, seems weired. i agree getting over the first bulge is the only hard bit but well protected. after that was to easy to be completely enjoyable. good first vs lead
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this graded the same as the file at higgar tor, seems weired. i agree getting over the first bulge is the only hard bit but well protected. after that was to easy to be completely enjoyable. good first vs lead
withey 22 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's a helluva move though. I found that there was a pretty good finger jam at full stretch, before the slap, but bringing your foot up to your elbow is pretty tough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a helluva move though. I found that there was a pretty good finger jam at full stretch, before the slap, but bringing your foot up to your elbow is pretty tough.
ceri 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: hard- getting established in the thin crack. You have to sidepull around your gear and get your foot next to your elbow and crank hard to get up. I ended up backing off it, but eventually got up as 2nd. rest of it is a lot easier, but fairly airy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hard- getting established in the thin crack. You have to sidepull around your gear and get your foot next to your elbow and crank hard to get up. I ended up backing off it, but eventually got up as 2nd. rest of it is a lot easier, but fairly airy!
LakesWinter 3 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agreee with david bowden he is a wise vegetable, maybe a parsnip. This is surely not VS but S4b or even HS 4c. It has got loads more polished over the last few years though, maybe all those groups top roping it is having an effect.......
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agreee with david bowden he is a wise vegetable, maybe a parsnip. This is surely not VS but S4b or even HS 4c. It has got loads more polished over the last few years though, maybe all those groups top roping it is having an effect.......
Simon Caldwell 28 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: For once I agree with the upgrade. It's a while since I did it but my memory is of a choice between gear or holds?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For once I agree with the upgrade. It's a while since I did it but my memory is of a choice between gear or holds?

Logged Ascents

2385 users have logged this
53 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 257
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 246
Votes cast 219
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pillar Ridge

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Laddow)