Rockfax Description
Climb the main groove on good jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftward (the tall can bridge it) to gain a square-cut groove. Up this to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Keith Axon 1949.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , The Gritlist , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Phoebe.Yoghurts | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Traverse in the roof was tough as any fall would mean a big swing. Managed to coat the layback crack with blood which made it slippery. Had to climb down from the roof to a ledge to rest and recover. Realised I was too high up into the roof so too tucked up to make the move. Managed it on the second try :) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Traverse in the roof was tough as any fall would mean a big swing. Managed to coat the layback crack with blood which made it slippery. Had to climb down from the roof to a ledge to rest and recover. Realised I was too high up into the roof so too tucked up to make the move. Managed it on the second try :) |
||||
| Fidget | 10 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, really enjoyed it! It's got everything - a layback (I agree that it's more of a layback than a jamming crack), small ledges, big reaches, slab finish (we managed to finish straight up). If you've got some small nuts you can place them in the left crack to protect the traverse (as long as you've extended your pro on the right to reduce the drag). I dropped onto a crimp on the left from a bridged position, rather than climbing up and traversing the roof. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, really enjoyed it! It's got everything - a layback (I agree that it's more of a layback than a jamming crack), small ledges, big reaches, slab finish (we managed to finish straight up). If you've got some small nuts you can place them in the left crack to protect the traverse (as long as you've extended your pro on the right to reduce the drag). I dropped onto a crimp on the left from a bridged position, rather than climbing up and traversing the roof. |
||||
| Ander | 14 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed this route, a lot, so there. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed this route, a lot, so there. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Birchen Edge
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
April Crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)