UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Skip up the right-hand wall as for The Funnel then try to make elegant progress up the awkward crack above and right using anything that works. The steep left arete is The Dancer, E1 5c. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, Hardy Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will_Armstrong 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Incredibly polished, hard start shared with the gully, but the chimney is good and grippy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incredibly polished, hard start shared with the gully, but the chimney is good and grippy
Harry_Sutcliffe 30 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Will didn't fancy Victory Crack instead opting for a bit of a thrutch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Will didn't fancy Victory Crack instead opting for a bit of a thrutch.
eldre070 5 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A pain to lead, yet some protection is required as it's Thrutch City for the last 5 metres. A peculiar route. The inital slabby start was green, but easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pain to lead, yet some protection is required as it's Thrutch City for the last 5 metres. A peculiar route. The inital slabby start was green, but easy.
Fidget 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, so much fun! Especially if you can get fully immersed in the crack, it was slightly narrower than the length of my feet, so managed to employ some fun offwidth techniques such as chicken wings and heel-toes. I should imagine that from the outside it looked something like this, but with the addition of a half-grimace, half-smile - http://home.primus.ca/~dooley/climbing/offwidths/episode6.html. One to solo, not lead!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, so much fun! Especially if you can get fully immersed in the crack, it was slightly narrower than the length of my feet, so managed to employ some fun offwidth techniques such as chicken wings and heel-toes. I should imagine that from the outside it looked something like this, but with the addition of a half-grimace, half-smile - http://home.primus.ca/~dooley/climbing/offwidths/episode6.html. One to solo, not lead!
Big Steve 15 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: felt harder than v diff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: felt harder than v diff
Gripped 1 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A thrutch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A thrutch.

Logged Ascents

819 users have logged this
22 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 57
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Central Buttress

Grade: HVD 3c ***
(Black Rocks)
Loading Notifications...