UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny 'button', to reach the base of the continuation crack. Up this to a ledge and an exit on the left on huge holds. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Axon 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, Peak District Grit Graded List, To do

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User Date Notes
Kryank 19 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Great climb, really enjoyable, beautiful movement, and good gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climb, really enjoyable, beautiful movement, and good gear.
Dimart 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No sign of the foot change on a shiny "button". Have no idea what that means. Very small but positive ledge for feet as you come out from the crack. A decent high right foot rock over with great solid hand holds.
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βeta: No sign of the foot change on a shiny "button". Have no idea what that means. Very small but positive ledge for feet as you come out from the crack. A decent high right foot rock over with great solid hand holds.
paul mitchell 2 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag. Paul Mitchell
βeta?
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βeta: The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag. Paul Mitchell
helix 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it. But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it. But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route.
Ander 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade
βeta?
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βeta: I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade
Ander 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb moves, not as hard as it looks.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb moves, not as hard as it looks.
Skyfall 25 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
Skyfall 25 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 172
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 170
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Inverted V

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)
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