16m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny 'button', to reach the base of the continuation crack. Up this to a ledge and an exit on the left on huge holds. © Rockfax
FA. Keith Axon 1949.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, Peak District Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dimart | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: No sign of the foot change on a shiny "button". Have no idea what that means. Very small but positive ledge for feet as you come out from the crack. A decent high right foot rock over with great solid hand holds. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: No sign of the foot change on a shiny "button". Have no idea what that means. Very small but positive ledge for feet as you come out from the crack. A decent high right foot rock over with great solid hand holds. |
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| paul mitchell | 2 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag. Paul Mitchell | βeta? | |
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βeta: The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag. Paul Mitchell |
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| tchnorton | 1 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Didn't see any 'crucial foot swap', just kept feet on the tiny ledge on the rh wall and then a long reach rockover onto the arete. VS 4b good as you'd take a swing into the wall if you fell. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't see any 'crucial foot swap', just kept feet on the tiny ledge on the rh wall and then a long reach rockover onto the arete. VS 4b good as you'd take a swing into the wall if you fell. |
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| helix | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it. But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it. But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route. |
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| Ander | 12 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade |
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| Ander | 12 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Superb moves, not as hard as it looks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb moves, not as hard as it looks. |
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| Skyfall | 25 Nov, 2002 |
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βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux). |
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| Skyfall | 25 Nov, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux). |
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Route of Interest
High Neb Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***(Stanage North)