UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Start under the right-hand edge of the slab and make hard moves (4b for the strong) up and left via a polished niche (overhead gear) to gain the slab. Move 2m left then finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. Frank Burgess early 1930s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

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User Date Notes
locksbury 27 Jun Show βeta
βeta: High foot and rock over FTW!
βeta?
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βeta: High foot and rock over FTW!
jameslomax 3 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Airy. Couldn't find gear in the traverse left which made this feel scary
βeta?
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βeta: Airy. Couldn't find gear in the traverse left which made this feel scary
roberto18 3 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The first move is great really give it some and before you now it your at the top, no point messing around with gear after the crux move its easy, so feel brave and go for the solo!.
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βeta: The first move is great really give it some and before you now it your at the top, no point messing around with gear after the crux move its easy, so feel brave and go for the solo!.
tchnorton 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Start is not VS you can get overhead gear in without leaving the ground
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βeta: Start is not VS you can get overhead gear in without leaving the ground
LakesWinter 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: To mwh not when the moves are about V Diff, and there is a decent thread on the left (a bit easy to miss?) The start is about 4b, no question, you can get a good toe jam in the thin crack under the big flat hold, get the jugs, pull up and stand on the flat polished bit, very good but not VS
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βeta: To mwh not when the moves are about V Diff, and there is a decent thread on the left (a bit easy to miss?) The start is about 4b, no question, you can get a good toe jam in the thin crack under the big flat hold, get the jugs, pull up and stand on the flat polished bit, very good but not VS
mwh 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Irrespective of the difficulty of the first move, the lack of gear on the rest of the climb surely merits VS...
βeta?
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βeta: Irrespective of the difficulty of the first move, the lack of gear on the rest of the climb surely merits VS...
Jamie B 7 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The start is defo strenuous 5a, which is good enough for VS (though an easy one) in my book.
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βeta: The start is defo strenuous 5a, which is good enough for VS (though an easy one) in my book.
Whealiebob 17 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I only climb VS, but I found this quite an easy solo. As long as you can do a pull up then you can do the first move. The top slab is just easy and enjoyable. Definitely not worth the upgrade to 5b. I'd go for HS 4c (5a if you're weak!!)
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βeta: I only climb VS, but I found this quite an easy solo. As long as you can do a pull up then you can do the first move. The top slab is just easy and enjoyable. Definitely not worth the upgrade to 5b. I'd go for HS 4c (5a if you're weak!!)

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High HVS
Mid HVS
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 50
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 102
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Manchester Buttress

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)
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