UKC Logbook - 'Orpheus Wall'

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good cams here protect the bewildering moves to jugs (hint - it is all about what you do with your legs). Make a prompt exit to easy ground. Almost E1, the route is one of the most frigged in the Peak and sadly the runner placements are suffering because of this. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User	Date		Notes
Tall Oak	5 Nov, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Classic Peak tick! Two cams and some hard pulling	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Classic Peak tick! Two cams and some hard pulling
paul mitchell	16 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The crux hold has crumbled,so the route is a lot more than HVS unless you are pretty tall.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The crux hold has crumbled,so the route is a lot more than HVS unless you are pretty tall.
MorganMcGlade	28 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: you cannot attach a top rope to the monument. hard to read on the plaque.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: you cannot attach a top rope to the monument. hard to read on the plaque.
Pythonist	19 May, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Hmmmm... Hard 5c move with perfect gear, above a slightly interesting start, and followed by nothing at all. Onsight, HVS sounds about right, but if there was another 2m of decent climbing either before or after the crux, it'd probably be E1. Definitely much harder than Ratline, but the gear's so much better! I'd still give Rat E1 and this HVS.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Hmmmm... Hard 5c move with perfect gear, above a slightly interesting start, and followed by nothing at all. Onsight, HVS sounds about right, but if there was another 2m of decent climbing either before or after the crux, it'd probably be E1. Definitely much harder than Ratline, but the gear's so much better! I'd still give Rat E1 and this HVS.
Glen	4 Sep, 2005	Show βeta βeta: A hard climb to onsite - it takes a while to work out the sequence. It doesn't make sense that Ratline is E1 and this is HVS. Ratline is technically easier, less sustained/strenuous and has better gear. I say Ratine=HVS, Orpheus Wall=E1 ;)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A hard climb to onsite - it takes a while to work out the sequence. It doesn't make sense that Ratline is E1 and this is HVS. Ratline is technically easier, less sustained/strenuous and has better gear. I say Ratine=HVS, Orpheus Wall=E1 ;)
Stevie3ee	24 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: far to short the end comes all to soon and its naff when when you get there. good route though my first hvs.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: far to short the end comes all to soon and its naff when when you get there. good route though my first hvs.
MNA123	12 Dec, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Best route ive climbed in a long time spent ages looking at the bottom bit trying to figure it out but as soon as i was roped up i got straight up to the break no sweat. i found a left footed heel hook and a right hand pull in the crack below the break the best way up this beast	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Best route ive climbed in a long time spent ages looking at the bottom bit trying to figure it out but as soon as i was roped up i got straight up to the break no sweat. i found a left footed heel hook and a right hand pull in the crack below the break the best way up this beast
Tyler	29 Sep, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Got pumped figuring out how to climb this, so I just slapped from the slot to the break before it was too late. It worked but it's not the sort of thing I expect to find on a HVS	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Got pumped figuring out how to climb this, so I just slapped from the slot to the break before it was too late. It worked but it's not the sort of thing I expect to find on a HVS
Monk	11 Jul, 2003	Show βeta βeta: I don't see why it is easier to solo. The gear is a couple of friends which take seconds to place in a not too strenuous position. The moves are tough though, but it feels great when you get the jugs!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I don't see why it is easier to solo. The gear is a couple of friends which take seconds to place in a not too strenuous position. The moves are tough though, but it feels great when you get the jugs!
The Pylon King	7 Jun, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Mad as toast!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Mad as toast!
Budge	12 Jul, 2002	Show βeta βeta: A lot harder than Ratline	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A lot harder than Ratline