UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and arduous route that feels like it is on the wrong cliff. Climb the technical slab until the rock leans. Battle on to the prominent hollow where final desperate moves leftwards gain easy ground. Intense! © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1980.

Ticklists

Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, On Peak Rock, The Gary Gibson Stranglers Playlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
JR 31 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: try a no.2 wallnut placed in the horizontal slot which i assume is where you are trying to place the small cams, now its safe! The cams higher up certainly dont rip!
 
Show beta
βeta: try a no.2 wallnut placed in the horizontal slot which i assume is where you are trying to place the small cams, now its safe! The cams higher up certainly dont rip!
UKB Shark 27 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to John Roberts Not totally safe. I tested the small friends at half height (twice) and they rip when shock loaded as the are not as good as they look when you place them due to soft rock (previous trashing ?) - but the thread stops you hitting the ground - just...(Serves me right for trying it in humid/warm conditions - well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it)
 
Show beta
βeta: In reply to John Roberts Not totally safe. I tested the small friends at half height (twice) and they rip when shock loaded as the are not as good as they look when you place them due to soft rock (previous trashing ?) - but the thread stops you hitting the ground - just...(Serves me right for trying it in humid/warm conditions - well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it)
Boy 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The move to gain the friend slot is much easier if you rock up facing left, rather than right as per the piccy in the chatsworth guide.
 
Show beta
βeta: The move to gain the friend slot is much easier if you rock up facing left, rather than right as per the piccy in the chatsworth guide.
JR 31 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Totally safe, apart from the boulder problem start. Very hard final move, easily falloffable. But excellent never the less. Might be wise to pre thread the thread on the right at the start. Very tricky to place otherwise, use your nutkey.
 
Show beta
βeta: Totally safe, apart from the boulder problem start. Very hard final move, easily falloffable. But excellent never the less. Might be wise to pre thread the thread on the right at the start. Very tricky to place otherwise, use your nutkey.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Usurper

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Curbar Edge)
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