UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Start 1m right of the chimney and climb up into a shallow corner, passing the porthole, to a good ledge. Finish up the crucial leaning and narrowing crack on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Gilbert Ellis 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fidget 5 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Any idea if you're allowed to use the left arete to get up the mid-height corner? I did as it seemed a bit tough without and would be a bit contrived if it's not in as it's so close, but it's so positive it felt like cheating and I wish I'd tried it without!
βeta?
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βeta: Any idea if you're allowed to use the left arete to get up the mid-height corner? I did as it seemed a bit tough without and would be a bit contrived if it's not in as it's so close, but it's so positive it felt like cheating and I wish I'd tried it without!
Chris Davids 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A gem of a route but I can't see why it's VS 4b. It's well protected and there are good rests between each of the sections. VS 4c or perhaps HS 4b.
βeta?
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βeta: A gem of a route but I can't see why it's VS 4b. It's well protected and there are good rests between each of the sections. VS 4c or perhaps HS 4b.
Dale Berry 26 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A delicate start, followed by an interesting middle, to a gripping finish add up to a rather tasty route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A delicate start, followed by an interesting middle, to a gripping finish add up to a rather tasty route.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 205
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 194
Votes cast 180
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gabriel and the Pearly Gates

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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