UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Often started via Sail Buttress, the direct start up the thin crack left of Sail Chimney improves the overall experience. Climb the crack, move left to the ledge then step up and right again to reach a good flake. Climb through the bulge by a bold high step to reach the upper slab. © Rockfax

FA. Len Millsom 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
roberto18 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: found the route brillant. It was given VS 4C in nunns old guide. I managed the reach ok and I'm 5'8. I'd have given it solid HVS 5a.Its only a one move wonder. also my dad found it easy and he is old and unflexible.
βeta?
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βeta: found the route brillant. It was given VS 4C in nunns old guide. I managed the reach ok and I'm 5'8. I'd have given it solid HVS 5a.Its only a one move wonder. also my dad found it easy and he is old and unflexible.
HimTiggins 6 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not that reachy (I'm on the short side of 5'9) and well protected with a size 1.5 cam in the break to the left and a size 5 nut in the bottom of the flake crack. Grab the flake crack, get your feet high and grab the good sloper - one 5a move with good gear, though the fall would be onto the ledge, so bog standard HVS 5a for me ...
 
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βeta: Not that reachy (I'm on the short side of 5'9) and well protected with a size 1.5 cam in the break to the left and a size 5 nut in the bottom of the flake crack. Grab the flake crack, get your feet high and grab the good sloper - one 5a move with good gear, though the fall would be onto the ledge, so bog standard HVS 5a for me ...
Pythonist 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Off-balance, but relatively easy, 5b move. I got gear in the horizontal breaks, and it felt soft E1-ish, but I would believe that with gear in the flake, it would be more like HVS. Definitely start up Amazing Grace.
βeta?
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βeta: Off-balance, but relatively easy, 5b move. I got gear in the horizontal breaks, and it felt soft E1-ish, but I would believe that with gear in the flake, it would be more like HVS. Definitely start up Amazing Grace.
Glen 21 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Much easier than Orpheus Wall......
βeta?
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βeta: Much easier than Orpheus Wall......
RichardMc 18 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It was VS 4c when I led it ;-)
βeta?
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βeta: It was VS 4c when I led it ;-)
Owen W-G 6 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe it was because I led this straight after Orpheus Wall but it felt ridiculously easy at E1. Fair enough, if you do fall off you have a ledge under you, but IMO the crux was about as hard as on Topsail and you do have gear by your head when you set off to do the move. VS could be uncharitable, so soft-touch HVS at best.
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βeta: Maybe it was because I led this straight after Orpheus Wall but it felt ridiculously easy at E1. Fair enough, if you do fall off you have a ledge under you, but IMO the crux was about as hard as on Topsail and you do have gear by your head when you set off to do the move. VS could be uncharitable, so soft-touch HVS at best.
leon 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: are you sure this is vs 5a owen? i know several people that have broken their ankles after falling off the crux and hitting the ledge.
βeta?
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βeta: are you sure this is vs 5a owen? i know several people that have broken their ankles after falling off the crux and hitting the ledge.
Owen W-G 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: E1? Very well protected 5a move, VDiff padding thereafter. VS 5a in my book. A doddle.
βeta?
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βeta: E1? Very well protected 5a move, VDiff padding thereafter. VS 5a in my book. A doddle.
Alex Mason 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: adam and steve u are muppets the grade is e1 so if it felt e1 thats probably because it is so it is easier for tall people thus the grade is not height dependent
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βeta: adam and steve u are muppets the grade is e1 so if it felt e1 thats probably because it is so it is easier for tall people thus the grade is not height dependent
MNA123 12 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 and fair enough the bold reach is a bit bold but a couple of good friends in the break below the flake do the trick for gear. no gear after that but the tops a piece of piss anyway.
βeta?
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βeta: My first E1 and fair enough the bold reach is a bit bold but a couple of good friends in the break below the flake do the trick for gear. no gear after that but the tops a piece of piss anyway.
andy newton 25 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A nice route which is extremly reach dependant, being short the crux was very hard, definitely in at E1 5b
βeta?
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βeta: A nice route which is extremly reach dependant, being short the crux was very hard, definitely in at E1 5b
Ram MkiV 9 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: thought it worthy of E1 because of the fall out zone as mentioned - i couldn't get any worthwhile gear in the 'blindish' flake. also felt towards the upper end of 5b to me and very reach dependent?
βeta?
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βeta: thought it worthy of E1 because of the fall out zone as mentioned - i couldn't get any worthwhile gear in the 'blindish' flake. also felt towards the upper end of 5b to me and very reach dependent?
Inane Negativity 20 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route (esp if started up the groove to the right, making it an independant line) 3 stars for Birchen although definately a contender for E0 5b!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route (esp if started up the groove to the right, making it an independant line) 3 stars for Birchen although definately a contender for E0 5b!
The Grist 23 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Easiest E1 I've ever done (not a bad thing!). But an alien helps.
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βeta: Easiest E1 I've ever done (not a bad thing!). But an alien helps.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 86
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Great Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)
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