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12m.

Rockfax Description
Access the lowest point of the ramp with difficulty, then climb the delicate slab above. Friends provide adequate protection but beware the final rounded moves. Quite a bit harder (and scarier) for the short, or in less than perfect conditions. A start up the right arete is The Defiance Variation - a bouldery f5. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Chatsworth to Bamford, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
foobar123 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Save some big cams / hexes for the belay at the top: without them all you can anchor off is a very rounded block.
βeta?
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βeta: Save some big cams / hexes for the belay at the top: without them all you can anchor off is a very rounded block.
Ratfeeder 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Friend 3.5 useful.
 
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βeta: Friend 3.5 useful.
Mark Sheridan 23 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I think HS4b would be about right, maybe even VS, when you cosider the lack of gear and being a bit run out. It's not as bold as Sunset slab at Froggatt,but not three grades below. Technically straightforward though, with good friction where you need it,i.e. the top-out.
 
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βeta: I think HS4b would be about right, maybe even VS, when you cosider the lack of gear and being a bit run out. It's not as bold as Sunset slab at Froggatt,but not three grades below. Technically straightforward though, with good friction where you need it,i.e. the top-out.
howlingbaboon 21 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Forget the friends here, I climbed it with 3 solid tricam placements, also the wired ones. nice slab that!
βeta?
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βeta: Forget the friends here, I climbed it with 3 solid tricam placements, also the wired ones. nice slab that!
Liam M 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, vaguely awkward start, and then just a little bold though not difficult. Managed to fit a RE flex 2 and 3 in pockets somewhere along breaks which seemed fairly good. Nothing for top half. Not sure I found any particular challenge with top out - guidebook made me expect worse than I found.
βeta?
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βeta: I agree, vaguely awkward start, and then just a little bold though not difficult. Managed to fit a RE flex 2 and 3 in pockets somewhere along breaks which seemed fairly good. Nothing for top half. Not sure I found any particular challenge with top out - guidebook made me expect worse than I found.
Oli 13 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with it being tricky start, but cams fit well in the pockets at the breaks.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with it being tricky start, but cams fit well in the pockets at the breaks.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the route is best wen soloed as some one else said but a brilliant stroll with a tricky start
βeta?
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βeta: the route is best wen soloed as some one else said but a brilliant stroll with a tricky start
Graham Booth 11 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: good solo
βeta?
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βeta: good solo
Simon Caldwell 28 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone who thinks this route is VS is in for a mighty shock if they try Crows Nest farther along the crag! That will show you what a VS is really like :-)
βeta?
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this route is VS is in for a mighty shock if they try Crows Nest farther along the crag! That will show you what a VS is really like :-)
Dale Berry 13 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: One of my favourite solos at Birchen and definitely done best that way. On all the occaisions I've 'led' it I've never placed a single runner. The friend placements in it are far from good, so I agree totally with the earlier comment about it being a chop route for the novice and easy for the experienced. Technically I agree with 4b for the start(though it is a lot easier if you can reach your foot directly on to the slopey hold and find the undercut with your right hand). Its a bit like Heather Wall; forget the grade and enjoy the great climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: One of my favourite solos at Birchen and definitely done best that way. On all the occaisions I've 'led' it I've never placed a single runner. The friend placements in it are far from good, so I agree totally with the earlier comment about it being a chop route for the novice and easy for the experienced. Technically I agree with 4b for the start(though it is a lot easier if you can reach your foot directly on to the slopey hold and find the undercut with your right hand). Its a bit like Heather Wall; forget the grade and enjoy the great climbing.
ceri 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i go with S 4a. Not hard, just balancy, and as long as you have the correct size cams for the totally rectangular cam-scars, fairly well protected. Some of or freshers did it this weekend, and didnt have problems with it.
βeta?
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βeta: i go with S 4a. Not hard, just balancy, and as long as you have the correct size cams for the totally rectangular cam-scars, fairly well protected. Some of or freshers did it this weekend, and didnt have problems with it.
Monk 11 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: There are 2 bombproof cam placements on this route in pockets that could have been made for size 2.5 and 3 friends. I could see how this would scare the pants off a timid climber but it is a brilliant route and safe (but mildly runout) if you put the gear in the obvious places. I have to agree that it is about VDiff for experienced climbers.
βeta?
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βeta: There are 2 bombproof cam placements on this route in pockets that could have been made for size 2.5 and 3 friends. I could see how this would scare the pants off a timid climber but it is a brilliant route and safe (but mildly runout) if you put the gear in the obvious places. I have to agree that it is about VDiff for experienced climbers.
Andy Sims 29 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but like most routes at Birchen - Best when soloed. Use an old guide for the 'real' grades'!
βeta?
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βeta: Great route, but like most routes at Birchen - Best when soloed. Use an old guide for the 'real' grades'!
Simon Caldwell 25 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: But adjacent Trafalgar Crack is a highly overgraded Diff with a problem start so no problem grading this one VDiff ;-)
βeta?
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βeta: But adjacent Trafalgar Crack is a highly overgraded Diff with a problem start so no problem grading this one VDiff ;-)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 227
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 216
Votes cast 199
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)