UKC Logbook - 'Trafalgar Wall'

12m.

Rockfax Description
Access the lowest point of the ramp with difficulty, then climb the delicate slab above. Friends provide adequate protection but beware the final rounded moves. Quite a bit harder (and scarier) for the short, or in less than perfect conditions. A start up the right arete is The Defiance Variation - a bouldery f5. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , World Graded List , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Chatsworth to Bamford , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User	Date		Notes
colegosney	9 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Runout but secure moves until the top! Poor gear, all the pockets are very blown. Sandbag for S	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Runout but secure moves until the top! Poor gear, all the pockets are very blown. Sandbag for S
RichardN	10 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Very bold at grade, especially as top is so rounded.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very bold at grade, especially as top is so rounded.
gazj1986	24 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Hard start, bold finish but at least the bit in the middle didn't take much gear. Pockets on route blown out so moved meter right to place red cam then back left to crack on
Show beta βeta: Hard start, bold finish but at least the bit in the middle didn't take much gear. Pockets on route blown out so moved meter right to place red cam then back left to crack on
Guy Atkinson	8 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Awkward belay setup as the placements are so blown out, take more cams or a set of hexes if you have them.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Awkward belay setup as the placements are so blown out, take more cams or a set of hexes if you have them.
foobar123	18 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Save some big cams / hexes for the belay at the top: without them all you can anchor off is a very rounded block.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Save some big cams / hexes for the belay at the top: without them all you can anchor off is a very rounded block.
Ratfeeder	13 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Friend 3.5 useful.
Show beta βeta: Friend 3.5 useful.
Mark Sheridan	23 Nov, 2006	Show βeta βeta: I think HS4b would be about right, maybe even VS, when you cosider the lack of gear and being a bit run out. It's not as bold as Sunset slab at Froggatt,but not three grades below. Technically straightforward though, with good friction where you need it,i.e. the top-out.
Show beta βeta: I think HS4b would be about right, maybe even VS, when you cosider the lack of gear and being a bit run out. It's not as bold as Sunset slab at Froggatt,but not three grades below. Technically straightforward though, with good friction where you need it,i.e. the top-out.
howlingbaboon	21 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Forget the friends here, I climbed it with 3 solid tricam placements, also the wired ones. nice slab that!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Forget the friends here, I climbed it with 3 solid tricam placements, also the wired ones. nice slab that!
Liam M	3 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I agree, vaguely awkward start, and then just a little bold though not difficult. Managed to fit a RE flex 2 and 3 in pockets somewhere along breaks which seemed fairly good. Nothing for top half. Not sure I found any particular challenge with top out - guidebook made me expect worse than I found.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I agree, vaguely awkward start, and then just a little bold though not difficult. Managed to fit a RE flex 2 and 3 in pockets somewhere along breaks which seemed fairly good. Nothing for top half. Not sure I found any particular challenge with top out - guidebook made me expect worse than I found.
Oli	13 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Agree with it being tricky start, but cams fit well in the pockets at the breaks.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Agree with it being tricky start, but cams fit well in the pockets at the breaks.
Sam and will	14 Mar, 2005	Show βeta βeta: the route is best wen soloed as some one else said but a brilliant stroll with a tricky start	βeta?
Show beta βeta: the route is best wen soloed as some one else said but a brilliant stroll with a tricky start
Graham Booth	11 Sep, 2004	Show βeta βeta: good solo	βeta?
Show beta βeta: good solo
Simon Caldwell	28 Jun, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Anyone who thinks this route is VS is in for a mighty shock if they try Crows Nest farther along the crag! That will show you what a VS is really like :-)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Anyone who thinks this route is VS is in for a mighty shock if they try Crows Nest farther along the crag! That will show you what a VS is really like :-)
Dale Berry	13 Dec, 2003	Show βeta βeta: One of my favourite solos at Birchen and definitely done best that way. On all the occaisions I've 'led' it I've never placed a single runner. The friend placements in it are far from good, so I agree totally with the earlier comment about it being a chop route for the novice and easy for the experienced. Technically I agree with 4b for the start(though it is a lot easier if you can reach your foot directly on to the slopey hold and find the undercut with your right hand). Its a bit like Heather Wall; forget the grade and enjoy the great climbing.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: One of my favourite solos at Birchen and definitely done best that way. On all the occaisions I've 'led' it I've never placed a single runner. The friend placements in it are far from good, so I agree totally with the earlier comment about it being a chop route for the novice and easy for the experienced. Technically I agree with 4b for the start(though it is a lot easier if you can reach your foot directly on to the slopey hold and find the undercut with your right hand). Its a bit like Heather Wall; forget the grade and enjoy the great climbing.
Monk	11 Jul, 2003	Show βeta βeta: There are 2 bombproof cam placements on this route in pockets that could have been made for size 2.5 and 3 friends. I could see how this would scare the pants off a timid climber but it is a brilliant route and safe (but mildly runout) if you put the gear in the obvious places. I have to agree that it is about VDiff for experienced climbers.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There are 2 bombproof cam placements on this route in pockets that could have been made for size 2.5 and 3 friends. I could see how this would scare the pants off a timid climber but it is a brilliant route and safe (but mildly runout) if you put the gear in the obvious places. I have to agree that it is about VDiff for experienced climbers.
Andy Sims	29 May, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Great route, but like most routes at Birchen - Best when soloed. Use an old guide for the 'real' grades'!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route, but like most routes at Birchen - Best when soloed. Use an old guide for the 'real' grades'!
Simon Caldwell	25 Mar, 2003	Show βeta βeta: But adjacent Trafalgar Crack is a highly overgraded Diff with a problem start so no problem grading this one VDiff ;-)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: But adjacent Trafalgar Crack is a highly overgraded Diff with a problem start so no problem grading this one VDiff ;-)