UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb onto the chock then move left to reach the narrow crack that splits the buttress left of the gully. Safe, but it is a fair test of crack technique and a good teaser for many a Stanage VS. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, The Gritlist, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, Seven Crags, Seven Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
howlingbaboon 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Well solid, hardest sev I've ever lead. Its well protected with threads but hard and off balance to place em, defo undergraded compared to other sevs I've climbed.
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βeta: Well solid, hardest sev I've ever lead. Its well protected with threads but hard and off balance to place em, defo undergraded compared to other sevs I've climbed.
tchnorton 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I belayed a good climber but novice leader up this and was surprised how taxing he found it until I followed. Teaching him to jam would certainly have helped but the placements whilst sound and all carried out off balance, which seems a bit unusual for Severe.
βeta?
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βeta: I belayed a good climber but novice leader up this and was surprised how taxing he found it until I followed. Teaching him to jam would certainly have helped but the placements whilst sound and all carried out off balance, which seems a bit unusual for Severe.
Rampikino 21 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Do a bunch of other VS routes on Birchen, then do this one. It will soon become clear that this is undergraded.
βeta?
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βeta: Do a bunch of other VS routes on Birchen, then do this one. It will soon become clear that this is undergraded.
Nick Smith - Climbers 19 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely jamming on the upper crack, but definitely undergraded at S 4a, and if you can't jam it will feel desperate!
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βeta: Lovely jamming on the upper crack, but definitely undergraded at S 4a, and if you can't jam it will feel desperate!
LakesWinter 16 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It's all because it's out of balance, but it's decently protected so I'd agree with the grade
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βeta: It's all because it's out of balance, but it's decently protected so I'd agree with the grade
Simon Caldwell 27 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It's probably easy for those who are good enough to solo HVS but for we mere mortals its bl**dy hard!
βeta?
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βeta: It's probably easy for those who are good enough to solo HVS but for we mere mortals its bl**dy hard!

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High VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
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Votes cast 71
High 4c
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Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 96
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Three Tree Climb

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lawrencefield)
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