UKC

Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fully-bolted version of Laughing Arthur.
1) 7c, 25m. Start up Infinite Gravity, then break left to climb the hanging ramp and steep groove to the roof. Bolt belay.
2) 7c+, 15m. As for Laughing Arthur pitch 2.
3) 7a+, 15m. Climb direct to the belay of Infinite Gravity. This is a fully bolted version of an older link pitch Coma 2. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Randall and Bob Hickish 23/Oct/2010.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Swanage Sport Routes

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Route of Interest
Zen Zero

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Cave Hole)

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