Rockfax Description
One of the largest roof climbs in Britain. The second pitch can still be climbed using trad gear although it is bolted.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the bulges to a large flake and rest. Traverse right into a groove, then out to good holds. Follow the main groove on big holds until a short traverse left. Guano-encrusted jugs above lead to ledges and a belay.
2) 6b (7c+), 15m. Climb the monumental roof crack, to the lip. Pull around to a bolt belay.
3) 6b, 10m. Follow the continuation crack, on blocky holds, to belay to the right of a slab (2 threads and a bolt).
4) 5b, 15m. Exit easily (as for The Schwarzechild Radius). © Rockfax
FA. M.Boater, P.Deketelaere 6-8.8.1970 FFA. Pete Oxley 3.12.1988.
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