Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

63m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the largest roof climbs in Britain. The second pitch can still be climbed using trad gear although it is bolted.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the bulges to a large flake and rest. Traverse right into a groove, then out to good holds. Follow the main groove on big holds until a short traverse left. Guano-encrusted jugs above lead to ledges and a belay.
2) 6b (7c+), 15m. Climb the monumental roof crack, to the lip. Pull around to a bolt belay.
3) 6b, 10m. Follow the continuation crack, on blocky holds, to belay to the right of a slab (2 threads and a bolt).
4) 5b, 15m. Exit easily (as for The Schwarzechild Radius). © Rockfax

FA. M.Boater, P.Deketelaere 6-8.8.1970 FFA. Pete Oxley 3.12.1988.


UK Crack Hitlist , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)


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