Restricted Access
Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
A very impressive line taking the centre of the huge black wall and the groove above, bisecting Procrastinating Giant. Reasonable gear and low in the grade.
1) 6b, 20m. A very sustained pitch. Follow the access traverse along to the centre of the wall (old peg). Climb straight up past 3 pegs, moving right at the third to a flake (thread). Attain the overlap above and belay at its right-hand side.
2) 6a, 15m. Climb a steepening corner past old pegs. Near the top roof, swing out right in a dramatic position (peg) to pass the top bulge (peg and thread) to a bolt belay. Lower-off or top out. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 03/Sep/1989.
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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole
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Z Chrome
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Lulworth)