Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
A big challenge. All the pegs are reported to be decayed.
1) 6a, 25m. Start up Naked and Savage to its niche, then traverse out right via an overlap to a hanging stance at its end.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb a corner on Monsters of Rock past 2 pegs. Cross the right wall around the arete to a thread and peg belay.
3) 6a, 15m. Pull rightwards over bulges (thread) then climb up a left-trending crack (peg) to the faultline. Surmount the capping bulge (peg) to reach a bolt belay. Climb out or abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route is in a desperate state of disrepair and was clearly an old aid line into an ethical sport route at its time. I have abseiled the line and the first pitch would have to rely on very poor and dangerous pegs, some have snapped and others ready to go. There is gear placements for the first belay but the second belay of a peg and thread is no longer there. I can only ever see the route being climbed again if a mixed bolt/trad ethic was considered.
FA. D.Fell 11.8.1974. FFA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 10.10.83.
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