The undercut pillar and roof left of The Schwarzchild Radius Approach by boat to a hanging belay. A pre-placed rope at the second belay may be a preferable exit to the route rather than climbing pitch 3 (pitch 4 of Laughing Arthur).
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the chimney (very large cam useful) and then up to good holds on the wall above. Move up and right across straightforward terrain (thread) to an overhung, guano-coated ledge (peg). Make steep moves on guano and slime-covered holds to gain an overhanging diagonal crack that leads directly to the roof (thread). Take a hanging belay here on the thread and a selection of cams in one of the wildest positions at Swanage.
2) 6b, 15m. Hand traverse out left from the belay (good small and medium cams) until level with the thread hanging from the lip of the 2m ceiling. Make an ape-like span (crux) out to jugs on the lip, then cut loose and fly up the overhanging wall above (2 more threads) to gain a ledge. Belay here on a pre-placed rope and two threads, or traverse right to the third belay of Laughing Arthur.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb Pitch 4 of Laughing Arthur, or pull up the chossy slab on a pre-placed rope. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Hickish, Dave Pickford 02/Sep/2011.
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