UKC

Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A vast, arching line through the overhangs on the left-hand side of the cave including an 8m roof crack. Crawl leftwards from the pebble beach to a small ledge.
1) 7c+, 25m. The cave roof and leaning wall above provide a great pitch, which is worth doing in its own right.
2) 8a+, 15m. The remarkable 'Supernova' roof crack in an outrageous position.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb the easy bulging pillar on the right. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley (1pt) 1993. FA. (P2) Tom Randall 2016.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Routes , Swanage Sport Routes

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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole

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High 8b
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High 8a
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Route of Interest
Freaky Ralph

Grade: 8a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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