Restricted Access
Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
The top of the second pitch of this climb is reported to be in a very dangerous state. Start at the foot of a diagonal crack.
1) 4a, 15m. Ascend the crack rightwards and over a bulge to come back left up another crack. Belay at an overhung ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. Loose and dangerous - avoid. Traverse a ledge on the right and climb a delicate slab rightwards to finish up a very unstable-looking flake. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The top pitch may have been affected by rockfall and is in an unstable state, take great care with future assents.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JasonCR8 | 22 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: As per the UKC notes, the final grove is now loose and dangerous. Still not really hard, I don\'t get where they get VS from, but precarious and one to avoid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As per the UKC notes, the final grove is now loose and dangerous. Still not really hard, I don't get where they get VS from, but precarious and one to avoid. |
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| ian bryant | 12 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Best be quick before the whole thing goes! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Best be quick before the whole thing goes! |
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| matt perks | 14 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did this in March '04 and thought the original finish looked pretty horrific. I also finished direct at about VS 4c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I did this in March '04 and thought the original finish looked pretty horrific. I also finished direct at about VS 4c. |
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| Bob M | 15 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: There has been another rockfall this year (Summer 2004), just to the right of the final corner. The top section seemed like VS now. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There has been another rockfall this year (Summer 2004), just to the right of the final corner. The top section seemed like VS now. |
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| DrGav | 18 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Glad others found it loose! 2nd pitch requires courage and we also backed up the stake belay with a post [although found another stake just further on the right later] | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Glad others found it loose! 2nd pitch requires courage and we also backed up the stake belay with a post [although found another stake just further on the right later] |
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| Bob M | 16 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignore my previous comment! The section of the flake which was hanging precariously over the top corner has now gone too, leaving a finish which seems safe and solid by Swanage standards, with excellent protection. The new finish is a bit harder than anything on the original route, upping the grade to HS, 4b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ignore my previous comment! The section of the flake which was hanging precariously over the top corner has now gone too, leaving a finish which seems safe and solid by Swanage standards, with excellent protection. The new finish is a bit harder than anything on the original route, upping the grade to HS, 4b. |
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| Bob M | 4 Sep, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Most of the exit flake on pitch 2 has fallen down - this section now looks very unstable. A safer finish is to climb straight up from the start of the traverse on pitch 2 at VS 4c (the top half of Parallel Lines) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Most of the exit flake on pitch 2 has fallen down - this section now looks very unstable. A safer finish is to climb straight up from the start of the traverse on pitch 2 at VS 4c (the top half of Parallel Lines) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blackers Hole
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)