Rockfax Description
The top of the second pitch of this climb is reported to be in a very dangerous state. Start at the foot of a diagonal crack.
1) 4a, 15m. Ascend the crack rightwards and over a bulge to come back left up another crack. Belay at an overhung ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. Loose and dangerous - avoid. Traverse a ledge on the right and climb a delicate slab rightwards to finish up a very unstable-looking flake. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The top pitch may have been affected by rockfall and is in an unstable state, take great care with future assents.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JasonCR8 | 22 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: As per the UKC notes, the final grove is now loose and dangerous. Still not really hard, I don\'t get where they get VS from, but precarious and one to avoid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As per the UKC notes, the final grove is now loose and dangerous. Still not really hard, I don't get where they get VS from, but precarious and one to avoid. |
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ian bryant | 12 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Best be quick before the whole thing goes! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Best be quick before the whole thing goes! |
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matt perks | 14 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: I did this in March '04 and thought the original finish looked pretty horrific. I also finished direct at about VS 4c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I did this in March '04 and thought the original finish looked pretty horrific. I also finished direct at about VS 4c. |
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Bob M | 15 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: There has been another rockfall this year (Summer 2004), just to the right of the final corner. The top section seemed like VS now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There has been another rockfall this year (Summer 2004), just to the right of the final corner. The top section seemed like VS now. |
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DrGav | 18 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Glad others found it loose! 2nd pitch requires courage and we also backed up the stake belay with a post [although found another stake just further on the right later] | βeta? | |
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βeta: Glad others found it loose! 2nd pitch requires courage and we also backed up the stake belay with a post [although found another stake just further on the right later] |
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Bob M | 16 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Ignore my previous comment! The section of the flake which was hanging precariously over the top corner has now gone too, leaving a finish which seems safe and solid by Swanage standards, with excellent protection. The new finish is a bit harder than anything on the original route, upping the grade to HS, 4b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ignore my previous comment! The section of the flake which was hanging precariously over the top corner has now gone too, leaving a finish which seems safe and solid by Swanage standards, with excellent protection. The new finish is a bit harder than anything on the original route, upping the grade to HS, 4b. |
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Bob M | 4 Sep, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Most of the exit flake on pitch 2 has fallen down - this section now looks very unstable. A safer finish is to climb straight up from the start of the traverse on pitch 2 at VS 4c (the top half of Parallel Lines) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Most of the exit flake on pitch 2 has fallen down - this section now looks very unstable. A safer finish is to climb straight up from the start of the traverse on pitch 2 at VS 4c (the top half of Parallel Lines) |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)