Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.


Rockfax Description
Start below the corner as for Broken Trail. Move up 2m then head up the bulging wall on pockets. Step left across a groove and up the blunt nose. Move up and finish as Le Cranium Cassé. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the boulder below left of the start of Le Cranium Cassé. Pull up on to right side of chert band move up 2m before head up bulging wall on small pockets. Step left across diagonal groove and up blunt nose direct. Gain slab and finish as Le Cranium Cassé.

FA. Martin Hallett 06/Oct/2019.


The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Portland


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Style of Ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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