Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A friendly climb. Start below a cave at 3m, and climb up past it. Follow the steep wall above on crimps and pockets. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 01/Dec/1995.
Ticklists
Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Popo | 2 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great fun route but boults look rusty and the resin is coming out in some of them | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great fun route but boults look rusty and the resin is coming out in some of them |
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| Ben Stokes | 23 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: As indicated in the Dorset Rockfax Update, this route is now graded 6c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As indicated in the Dorset Rockfax Update, this route is now graded 6c. |
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| John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The route immediately right is well worth doing. I found it more pumpy than Babelacious and less obvious, but I may have been tired. It's still a bit friable at present but should clean up well. 6C plus and 1/2 stars? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The route immediately right is well worth doing. I found it more pumpy than Babelacious and less obvious, but I may have been tired. It's still a bit friable at present but should clean up well. 6C plus and 1/2 stars? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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No Man is an Island
Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)