Rockfax Description
An elegant groove-line. Worth seeking out - one of the best of the grade at Swanage. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 28.3.98 28/Mar/1998

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

Thinker01 08/Jul/17 Lead dog

Thought I was being clever going out to the big flat hold on the right......I wasn't!

Hidden 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
bede.west 13/May/17 Lead rpt

2nd time I've done this [o/s-ed the first time but can't remember when]

TomatoPro 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Managed to manage the pump, tough moves on bottom section, top section has some very cool moves, in a great position

with Joe
cindylmy 17/Apr/17 2nd dog
JoeFoster59 17/Apr/17 Lead dog

What an amazing position. The initial slab has some cool moves then I struggled higher up and kept greasing off the holds the top out was interesting. Overall a really cool route that would be worth returning to do it clean

haribotheclimber 28/Jan/17 Lead dog

week head game

Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead RP
helkay 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great climb, in an impressive setting

Matt Harle 18/Sep/16 Lead
with Leo Knoertzer
ian d f 06/Sep/16 TR O/S
with shunt
Tommy Harris 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing and great exposure..

with Hannah
Rachael Ellis ?/Jul/16 Lead RP
with patrick hill
Jus 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S


Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead dnf
climbomaniac 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S


badgerjockey 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Rich/Kuang
john lynch 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
tsyrett 18/Apr/15 TR RP
tsyrett 18/Apr/15 Lead RP

Struggled at first due to slightly greasy conditions and poor route finding. Got it on second lead attempt after a clean ascent on top rope to figure out the moves. Definitely better friction keeping left. A great line in an awesome position makes for a great photo...

BRoe ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
dynoseb ??/2015 Lead O/S

Sick route,nice movement. Strange limestone,quite glassy but with dots of flint friction in it,keep an eye out for the friction on the top slab before the chains.

Pete Scott 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Laramadness 01/Aug/14 Lead dog

Poor reading lead to hold fumble and lob! Eejit!

with RF
Dan_Carroll 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
nath_casper 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gibsond 13/Aug/13 Lead dog

Went bolt to bolt to put clips in and then on red-point came off when moving up to undercut. No time to do it again.

Hidden 05/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 25/Jul/13 Lead RP

The greasiest day in the world! Got to the top third before slipping off a small sidepull. Nice route. 2nd go

with Jamie Hawton
Monkey_Alan 18/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd try. Went too far right on O/S attempt, cruised it second go.

with Matt Tyson
paultaylor 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
will moy 09/Jun/13 Lead RP
with paul taylor
Alex More 01/Jun/13 Lead
with trev
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 02/May/13 Lead dog
with Drew
Hidden 02/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 20/Sep/12 Lead dog

Gutted not to get OS....made all the moves up and was fairly tired so rushed the last move and came off!!!! Should know better.

IanMulvany 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt

Brilliant climbing, tried it last year, got it clean today, very happy.

with Daniel Keller
sparkass 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
blob737 01/Oct/11 TR O/S
with Elliot Jones, Bryce Johansen,
Chris_barr 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Bob
EmilyElouise 29/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 28/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 28/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Alex
clipskipper 11/Jun/11 Lead β
with Dave Wing
andyhurford 11/Jun/11 TR dnf

Not good after lunch.

davewing 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Andy H
Hidden 21/May/11 TR dog
Daniel ?/May/11 Lead dog

What a beauty! Totally agree with you Ian.

Daniel Wicks 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
martinazando 23/Apr/11 2nd dog
al99 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MontyH 09/Apr/11 TR β
with Brian, pete frost
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
IanMulvany 14/Mar/11 Lead dog

wow, wow, wow, what an amazing climb, totally blew my mind. Hard to onsight, I got caught up on the crux with a couple of options and peeled off, but it's just so fun. Really well bolted, and a great atmosphere.

with Daniel Keller
monsteratt 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Good climb, very nice position. Only just cleaned it. Getting pretty pumped at top. Did a very ungraceful knee finish onto ledge

with Jess and Guy
Ceridwen 15/Aug/10 TR dog
with Sophie Nunn, Heather
Sophie Nunn 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
Ben Vieyra 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Great position above the sea at the edge of the main quarry. Quite sequency climbing for the grade. Interesting scramble back from belay ledge!

ollie1 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
davidrblakeman 26/Jun/10 Lead β
with Oli (Death Rope) Mills
trev_f 22/May/10 Lead RP

Retro onsight

with Alex M
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
LiLaMont 15/Aug/09 Lead dog
hippo99 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with rache
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Ed Babs 21/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Trevor
adrianjenner 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
clipskipper 22/Mar/08 Lead dog

Trickier than it looks!

with Ed Babington
sadams 23/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
feilx 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Lovatt
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
bigie bob ??/2005 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Jun/03 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
EllieWoods 25/May/03 TR dog
shoulders 15/Jul/00 Lead
with dai
Hidden 17/Aug/98 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/1998 Lead
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