Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A Portland gem. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb to below a long flake-crack. Move up the crack until a line leads out left onto the wall and a small ledge. Climb the slabby wall above the ledge until a tricky mantel move gains the lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 14/Sep/1991.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland , Gwenland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Work you fucking piece of shit , Portland scheming
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| a_radiohead_fan | 9 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: super rising traverse and at the end of a long day the mantle felt desperate to my tired arms. i had de ja vu. thought i was on return to roissy all over again. much better than lord stubbock. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: super rising traverse and at the end of a long day the mantle felt desperate to my tired arms. i had de ja vu. thought i was on return to roissy all over again. much better than lord stubbock. |
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| John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Portland classic. Top move is well-protected but apparently quite hard for vertically challenged female climbing partners. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Portland classic. Top move is well-protected but apparently quite hard for vertically challenged female climbing partners. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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The Jewel of the Isle
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Wallsend South)