Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
The long flake-crack is a good route. Climb the lower wall as for Driven Like the Snow until below the flake-crack. Climb the accommodating crack to a tricky bulge at its end. Finish up a perplexing groove in the headwall. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 13/Aug/1995.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , Work you fucking piece of shit , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| earthkeptwarm | 17 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: An enjoyable flowing longish route with the difficulty arising on the slabby top. A bit low in in the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An enjoyable flowing longish route with the difficulty arising on the slabby top. A bit low in in the grade. |
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| Alun | 20 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree 100% with Al Evans - would be a 2* 6a+ were it not for the sting in the tail, which makes it rather unbalanced. Good move at the top though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree 100% with Al Evans - would be a 2* 6a+ were it not for the sting in the tail, which makes it rather unbalanced. Good move at the top though. |
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| Richard Horn | 30 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top move isnt so bad when you go for it, but I guess it is just a bit of a shock when you have been hauling up a juggy layback for 15m, and I spent about 10 mins contemplating the move. Didnt occur to me to try and clip the belay from the small holds when there was a juggy looking top only a reach away. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Top move isnt so bad when you go for it, but I guess it is just a bit of a shock when you have been hauling up a juggy layback for 15m, and I spent about 10 mins contemplating the move. Didnt occur to me to try and clip the belay from the small holds when there was a juggy looking top only a reach away. |
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| nealh | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: well i like it its the sort of route which makes a great warm up, you get 20m of 6a then when your getting into your stride you have to do a nice littl 5c/6a move to ge the tick, and all on good rock, what s the problem | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: well i like it its the sort of route which makes a great warm up, you get 20m of 6a then when your getting into your stride you have to do a nice littl 5c/6a move to ge the tick, and all on good rock, what s the problem |
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| John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you want your partner to offer you lots of sexual favours,lead the route first and then put a long sling on the belay to take the sting out of the crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you want your partner to offer you lots of sexual favours,lead the route first and then put a long sling on the belay to take the sting out of the crux. |
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| Chris Shorter | 1 Oct, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: The move described by Ben sounds rather familiar. The hardest move by far is clipping the belay. I didn't do the "extended tick"; I doubt many people do. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The move described by Ben sounds rather familiar. The hardest move by far is clipping the belay. I didn't do the "extended tick"; I doubt many people do. |
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| tomrainbow | 22 Apr, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top felt English 6a to me. The route is a bit disjointed, the rest is much easier. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The top felt English 6a to me. The route is a bit disjointed, the rest is much easier. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)