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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
Not as dirty as it once was, but the line is prone to dust being washed down from above. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 04/Apr/1997.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Quite loose at the start. Gets a lot nicer from the break up with a nice layover on good holds. Overall well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite loose at the start. Gets a lot nicer from the break up with a nice layover on good holds. Overall well protected.
silhouette 14 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As long as you are aware of the dust, you will appreciate this route; crux seems to be a sketchly lackback leading to a bomber flake. Well protected at that crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As long as you are aware of the dust, you will appreciate this route; crux seems to be a sketchly lackback leading to a bomber flake. Well protected at that crux.
Danos 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Still quite dusty, particularly in the lower half. Pretty well protected on the awkward crux though, pretty good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still quite dusty, particularly in the lower half. Pretty well protected on the awkward crux though, pretty good route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pregnant Pause

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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