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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
© Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A bit dirty and fragile in low half, but worth half a star for the moves on to the hanging slab.
Left of ‘Aim High, Shoot Low’.
Climb just right of the chimney crack to a half-height ledge.
Move up through the open corner then make moves left out onto the hanging slab. Finish up the slab.
Adam Perrett 19/Feb/2023.
Ticklists
Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2021 , Portland , Blacknor North Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adam Perrett | 14 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The lower rock is a bit crumbly atm. Should clean up with traffic. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The lower rock is a bit crumbly atm. Should clean up with traffic. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Reptile Smile
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)