Restricted Access
USER ATTENTION
Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
An incredible conglomerate formation at the start gains more conventional rock and climbing on the upper wall. An old thread is in place at the start. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor 20/Mar/1993.
Ticklists
Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TomatoPro | 29 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the bolt line and climb the flowstone! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Ignore the bolt line and climb the flowstone! |
||||
| dobby 200 | 5 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt is actually a piece of tat threaded, it currently looks pretty sun faded. Large but easy runout between 2nd and 3rd, unless you clip the next door route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The first bolt is actually a piece of tat threaded, it currently looks pretty sun faded. Large but easy runout between 2nd and 3rd, unless you clip the next door route. |
||||
| FabioM | 15 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seems loose at the bottom but it is not. After the conglomerate a few delicate moves, followed by long moves. Quite pumpy. Feels a bit harder than 6a. May be 6a+ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Seems loose at the bottom but it is not. After the conglomerate a few delicate moves, followed by long moves. Quite pumpy. Feels a bit harder than 6a. May be 6a+ |
||||
| Fidget | 8 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliantly sustained, forces you to keep going and thinking fast. Didn't really find any particularly bad rock, but then I was being careful anyway since the description suggests so. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Brilliantly sustained, forces you to keep going and thinking fast. Didn't really find any particularly bad rock, but then I was being careful anyway since the description suggests so. |
||||
| Danos | 21 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's currently a seagull's nest on top of the conglomerate and you'll get dive bombed if you hang around too close for too long! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There's currently a seagull's nest on top of the conglomerate and you'll get dive bombed if you hang around too close for too long! |
||||
| Alex More | 14 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fun route and great views | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fun route and great views |
||||
| Ewan | 3 Jun, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: there's a piece of tat to clip in th conglmerate so take 7 Q.D's. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: there's a piece of tat to clip in th conglmerate so take 7 Q.D's. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Troubled water's - extension
Grade: 6a S1 ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)